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Vehicle Details

Reference : RSPV/2015/003
Manufacturer Ref :  
Make: AUTO-TRAIL
Model : Imala, Tracker, Apache 632, V Line (600,620), Frontier
Launch Date : 25/01/2016
Numbers Involved : 688
Build Start Date : 01/05/2014
Build End Date : 30/04/2015 

Recall Details

Concern : CONTROL OF THE VEHICLE MAY BE AFFECTED
Description : It has been identified that under certain situations it is possible for the weld joining the bracket post to the base plate to fail. This could allow the TV monitor to become detached from its stored position. If this was to occur whilst the vehicle is in motion, it can result in either block the drivers view of the road or strike them causing injury.
Remedial Action : Recall all affected vehicles to replace the monitor bracket with a stronger version.
Vehicle Id : 02577184 to 0282654
02577184 to 02823654
02577184 to 02823654
02577184 to 02823654
02577184 to 02823654

Other Vehicles Affected (Click the vehicle to perform an extended search)

AUTO-TRAIL - IMALA
AUTO-TRAIL - VLINE
AUTO-TRAIL - FRONTIER
AUTO-TRAIL - TRACKER
AUTO-TRAIL - APACHE

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Vehicle Details

Reference : RSPV/2017/006
Manufacturer Ref :  
Make: AUTO-TRAIL
Model : Vline (610,635, 636), Imala (620, 720, 715, 625, 730,615,734) Tribute (T-615, T-620, T- 720 T-715, T-736) T-726) , Tribute (680,699,670)
Launch Date : 16/05/2017
Numbers Involved : 237
Build Start Date :
Build End Date :  

Recall Details

Concern : PRINTED CIRCUIT BOARD MAY OVERHEAT
Description : The printed circuit in the power supply unit may overheat.
Remedial Action : On affected vehicles replace the power supply unit with an unaffected version
Vehicle Id :

Fiat Ducato with Comfort-Matic Heater Fault Hot Air to Drivers Feet

The copy email below outlines my communication to Fiat Customer Care regarding my concern. This email was sent twice without any conformation received from Fiat, my next action was phone fiats 0800 number on there web page. This was re-directed to Fiat Italy, my email was found by the English speaking customer care operative. At this point I entered into a long conformation discussion, insisting on a log number, It is important you insist on them logging  your concern.  I kept Chelston up dated on all correspondence, a few days passed when I received a call from Chelston informing me that Fiat would like to inspect my Motor Home, a date was arranged. The outcome of that inspection is below my copy email.      

 

Fiat Ducato with Comfort-Matic Gearbox  VIN  ZFA25000002E*****

I took delivery of my motor home based on the Fiat Ducato September 2017.

 I unfortunately experienced a warning light fault so returned to the Fiat dealership Chelston, located  in Wellington, Somerset. That fault was rectified, but my second reported fault regarding the heater not delivering hot air to the driver's feet, was not accepted as a manufacture's fault. I do not accept that to remedy it, they could modify the heater outlet at my expense.  This fault only appears when the Comfort-Matic clutch pedal  replacement foot rest  is fitted. It blocks the hot air that should be directed on to the driver's feet, therefore making the heater  not fit for purpose. The technician took me to two other Ducato's one the same as mine with the same fault, the other a manual gearbox that did not have the same fault.

To check this if you turn the heater on full blow to the feet you can thread your hand up behind the foot panel and feel

NOT RECALL

hot air, but if you rest your hand where the heat should be directed, there is no heat. With my experience as a retired Technician and Iveco service manager I am very concerned that the heat directed up behind the dash  could cause premature failure of electrical equipment in that area of the vehicle.

I requested the dealership to contact you with this concern, I trust thy have as when recently I used my motor home in freezing weather conditions my feet did not get warm.

I look forward to you investigating  this matter and recommending a fix, not at the customer's expense.

 

My Heater now works as it should. My assessment of the fault is that only the Comfort-Matic has this fault, the reason is Fiat has fitted a plate where the Clutch pedal would have been, this blocks off the heater outlet redirecting the hot air up behind the dash. You can check this yourself by putting you hand up behind the pedals towards the rear if the dash. When I picked up my Motor home I requested conformation as to the fix. I was told that it consisted of the fitment of recognized Fiat parts, of the pedal plate also the heater outlet pipe. Apparently this fix is not a recall, so I encourage any owner that has this concern to take this path. Personally I am upset that as the owner I should not need to be put in this position, as the indications are that Fiat have a fix and are aware of this concern, so being unfair to there customers regarding that concern.  

I thank Chelston Motor Homes Fiat service department helping me to get this resolve.

Dennis Hobbs  

How to remove the foot rest.

Remove the 2 screws above the fuse box cover (photo 1). Hold the lip from where the screws have been removed and the other side of the panel, pull firmly to release the clips (photo 2 shows where to pull on the left side). This panel is pivoted from the bottom (photo 3). Lift the panel from the 3 locators. The 2 top screws of the foot rest are now exposed, remove them (photo 4). Pull out the plastic plug/stud on the front bottom right (photo 5). Now the bit I am not happy about. I could not see/get to the screw that holds the bottom left in place. So I used a pair of cutters to cut the tab off (photo 6). That's it, job done (y). I will check for draughts when I next take Max out. I would not be surprised if I have to put some carpet/draught proofing down. The video I posted earlier shows the difference this makes

 

AUTOTRAIL

As part of our ongoing quality assessment and despite full endurance testing, we have discovered a potential risk

 

with the weld on the front TV bracket fitted to a number of 2015 Auto Trail vehicles.

 

It has been identified that certain conditions can affect the structural integrity of the weld that holds the two pieces of the TV bracket together. In some situations this can lead to the weld failing allowing the TV to drop with no prior warning. Because of this small risk, we have decided to add a secondary latch to the front of the TV installations on all 2015 affected models detailed below within the build numbers; 151002 - 151536 inclusive, 155001 - 155534 inclusive and 158009 - 158055 inclusive (after these build numbers the bracket was modified with additional welds).

 

Please note that this rework is not required on all models within the above build numbers.

Imala 615                     Tracker RS                   Apache 632                 Frontier Navajo

Imala 620                     Tracker EKS                                                     Frontier Mohawk          

Imala 715                     Tracker FB                   V Line 600                   Frontier Dakota

Imala 720                     Tracker RB                   V Line 620                   Frontier Savannah

                                                                                                              Frontier Delaware

                                                                                                              Frontier Comanche

                                                                                                              Frontier Chieftain.

My 2015 Dakota was recalled to the dealer (Ashburton RV) when it was about a year old, certainly during 2016, to fit an additional and much nore substantial latching system to the TV. It works great with the added benefit that it solved an annoying rattle from the existing catch.

https://thetfordfridgecheck.com/

 Power Supply Unit

https://youtu.be/BWvIUyEJ8L4

 

Sargent Recall Notice

A small number of PSU built in November and December 2016, and fitted to vehicles in January / February 2017 are being recalled. They have identified 70 circuit boards that may prematurely fail due to a possible manufacturing problem.  These 70 PCB’s were used during a period where 190 EC155 PSU’s were manufactured, so we are including all 190 of these for checking and possible replacement.

 

 

If the PSU serial number is between 7908 to 8095 inclusive then it is one of the 190 that need to checked.

 

Les

Hi, my Tracker EKS rear indicator lights flick from left to right indicator light, approx every 80 seconds.  They just flick once from left to right. Then repeat the flick approx 80 seconds later.  The vehicle is stationary and the ignition is off.  The front indicator lights and those on the mirrors do not flick when this happens.  Has anyone experienced the same thing or know why this happens?  I am a little puzzled!

 

Cheers, Bman

Hi, I think I have solved this problem myself, by ensuring that all the doors are tightly slammed shut including the front cab doors and the habitation door.  Giving the doors are a good slam and then pressing the remote lock seems to have done the trick.  I suspect the flickering is an indication that the doors are not shut properly.

I am having the same issue with our 2018 imala 730.

its not the doors not being shut in our case. If the doors aren’t properly shut you can’t actually lock the vehicle.

i was told by Auckland Motorhomes

to remove the fuse for the tail lights located behind the drivers seat on the floor, leave out for a few minute s and replace. This temporary fixed it but has come back since. 

Now I am at loss. Have written to both autotrail and Sargent and waiting for a reply.

anybody else know what the fix is? Is it a cranking battery issue! Low voltage!

 

Another possability is if you have a third party alarm system, that will be interfaced with your central locking and indicators.

 

Hi Robert, check the interface wiring that the tail lights feed from, it is a unit in the boot of your van, It gets its feed from floor behind the driver seat Em40 look for loose fuses wire connection points. Cracking issues earth strap problem.Les

Hi les.

you are talking about this in the photo.

what has me a little curios about this is that looks like a trailer light interface but there also fitted another aftermarket trailer light fitting, is this necessary do you know?

 

 

Just got this reply from Sargent.

 

I do apologise for the inconvenience the rear flashing indicators have caused. The intermittent fault can be rectified by updating the VLM5 unit which is located at the back of the van. I will attach the file to the email. If you could please see your dealer, I believe they have the Sargent Programmer V3 which has a blue label. All they need to do is to copy the file which I am attaching to the email on the SD card of the programmer and overwrite the existing file and then they can update the VLM5 on your van and the problem will be rectified.

 

 

Thanks Robert for the further research.  I’ll have to check this and monitor.  Since my last post, I haven’t seen the indicator lights flicker at all.  But I will be very keen to hear how you get on with the latest advice from Sargent.

Hi Robert, the picture is the interface for your tail lights don't disconnect for Sargent system. The small interface is for towbar wiring. Looks like you need to update via SD card for lighting. Les

Own a 2002/2006 Fiat based motorhome?

Check your sump ---- Rusty 

An extract from an email from a UK member regarding his motorhomel MOT test.

 

I put my van in for her MOT which she passed with no problems as far as the MOT was concerned,the tester called me over to the pit to have a look under the van at which time he pointed out the engine oil sump covered in oil, I assumed there was a major leak from the casket BUT it turned out to be that the sump had near enough rusted through, in fact it was so bad he reckoned another 20 mile and it would blow.

Now the reason for this mail is I suggest it might be an idea to put this on the web site, the mechanic told me this is a known problem on all 2002/2007 Ducato's, so my view is if you have one of these years check it out! He didn't say anything about earlier or later models.
In fact I've just been talking to a guy on our site here who has an 05 plate and his is going too!
When I went to pick the van up today the guy showed me my old sump and you could have put your fingers straight through it.

Has anyone had a towball fitted to the front of a Fiat Ducato? I'm considering having one made to make launching my sailing dinghy less manual. Backing down ramps especially gravel accessways is not very much fun. I don't intend to actually put the road trailer in the water, I have a lightweight launching trailer that can come off and an electric winch mounted on the road trailer to pull the yacht back up. As I understand from UK adverts, the towball must be mounted slightly off centre.  

For a non-airbag vehicle adding structures to the front is feasible as long as they don't protrude so it would have to be a removeable tongue. 20mm behind the bumper rings a bell.

For a vehicle fitted with airbags it would be almost impossible to have it certified unless someone, elsewhere in the world, has engineering drawings and test results to show that it didn't interfere with your vehcles safety features and they were accepted in NZ by an NZTA approved certifier... sounds very expensive.

If it was a very light trailer you might be able to make up something that screwed into the recovery/towing socket though. Because you would only use it on a ramp, not on the road, it wouldn't need to be certified.

Thanks for that reply Mike & Chris. After reading my handbook (again) I have got my towing hook but cannot find the little hatch where it should screw in. I've located a little triangular hatch opened by screwdriver as stated but there is only a little metal setscrew with Torx 27mm head. When I unscrew that there still is nowhere I can see for the towing hook to go.. any further insight gratefully accepted.

Our vehicle is a 2015 (NZ reg 2016) so others might not be the same.

 

Just went to check because I have never had the towing eye out of its stowage... on the drivers side in line with the number plate there is a rectangular panel about 50 x 60mm which levers out from the bottom. The towing eye is under the passenger seat with the jack etc. If you bought a long high tensile bolt with the same thread or a spare eye I'm sure a suitable device could be constructed.  Mike

Thanks Mike, found it OK - the illustration in my manual had me looking on the passenger side. Glad to know where it is i ever needed for recovery was well. Cheers

Can someone please tell me how to remove the rubber cap where the towing hook screws in behind the cover on the front bumper of my 2015 Imala. I can't see any obvious way. I could drill through it and hook it out but there might be a better way?

Hi Dave

Prise it out with a broad bladed screwdriver from the side... description is in the owners manual on page 226. The towing eye should be under the passenger seat.

 

 

 

Thanks Mike and Chris....just wanted to be sure. My manual has the instructions on a different page but nothing about the plug. All good now.

Hi Dave

 

It may be on a different page in my manual as well, but when I am at home I usually use a digital version... see the link below, it may be of interest.

 

http://aftersales.fiat.com/eLumData/EN/77/250_DUCATO/77_250_DUCATO_603.99.321_EN_01_05.13_L_

E5/77_250_DUCATO_603.99.321_EN_01_05.13_L_E5.pdf

Can anyone recommend a tow bar supplier and fitter in the Hamilton or Tauranga areas?  We need ours modifying to raise the height of the tow bar so our tow bar mounted bike rack on our Delaware doesnt ground so easily.  Thanks.

Talk to Peter Johnston, pbjohnston@xtra.co.nz who is based near Huntly. Good guy for both towbars and seatbelts.

Peters cell 0274874287 very good to deal with.

Hi Peter we have a 2017 Delaware and we are trying to fit a bike rack onto our tow bar but as it is a hockey stick type there is nothing to hold rack stable and wondered if you have any suggestions

 

cheers Bob Wood

bobwood160@gmail.com 

 

We use a Thule bike rack on a 2018 Delaware with I suspect same Towbar , it locks down on towball firmly. Takes two e-bikes and sits very solid on towball.

We have Witter equivalent of Thule rack. Excellent and grips the towball very well, however on the Delaware it exacerbates the already-long overhang and grounds a lot. We met someone recently who had had the towball raised (by cutting and adding 200mm, which of course means it's not certified for towing) which gave good ground clearance and worked beautifully (that was with a Thule rack too). Would absolutely not recommend the horizontal towbar-mounted rack without modification.

Wanting to put a towbar on our newly acquired Tracker RB which apparently will need to be certified by an engineer, as we have COF, not WOF.

Does anyone know where in Auckland we can get this doe and fitted, at a reasonable price?

Do you want to tow or just for a bike rack.

Probably a tailer or small boat 

Hi, we have used Acker Bilt Ltd in Penrose.  They specialise in tow bars, roof racks, and bull bars.  Our old MH was also on a COF and we found the process very straightforward and received the paper work by a certified engineer, which Acker Bilt organised.  May be not the cheapest in terms of price, but we were happy with the service and the quality of the tow bar fitted and were confident that they knew what they were doing in terms of expert advice.  From memory the MH had to be kept over night and this was securely locked under cover in their massive workshop.  We presented the certified engineer paperwork to the VINZ testing station at the time of COF and they took a copy and registered the tow bar into their system and issued new vehicle labels with the towing weights etc.

 

Perhaps give them a call or go and see them with the Tracker for a quote.

Acker Bilt Ltd 

5 Industry Road, Penrose.  Phone: 5795167

 

 

Thanks for that Bman I will.

Hi

Question for members who tow vehicles behind their Autotrails... curious about what method you use to protect the front of the toad from flying gravel etc. Ease of use, effectiveness, cost, shop bought or homemade?? Protective blanket, extra mudflaps, horizontal curtain, nothing at all??

I completed a 6500km trip around North and South islands towing my New Jimny one very small stone bruise. I used full width brush curtain purchased from TWL mounted in a aluminum mounding purchased from Ulritch. I mounted it half way between the wheels and the back of the mh. Works fantastic. One mh,er who followed me in the rain at Hokitika  made the comment that the vortex that comes out from the MH clears the Jimny. I'm super happy with the setup.

Hi

 

Sounds great and reasonably easy to set up, I understand that the brush comes in different sizes, how close to the ground does yours go? Was the fore and aft positioning just a good guess or is there some research on the subject?

The brush is 12mm off the ground. 

Hi

 

Since buying our Dakota I have looked at various ways to attach a small 4wd vehicle; towing dolly, A-frame or trailer. To this end I have just arranged the purchase of a new Suzuki Carry truck in Japan, arriving mid January and now I have to decide which method. Preference at the moment is to have a custom built alloy trailer which will negate the hassles with reversing, brakes and lights and also give me a convenient way to transport our sea-kayaks. The Suzuki is around 740kgs and the trailer will be a little over 300 giving a small margin for kayaks etc to stay within the 1250kgs towing limit specified by Autotrail.

 

Has anyone done anything similar?

 

Regards

Mike

I think for towing a trailer or car check your windscreen sticker NZTA for unbraked weights. .... our Comanche is 750 kg max and 1500 kg braked

Hi Les

 

Sorry, maybe I wasn't very clear, whatever I tow will be braked and I know the limits. What I am interested in are opinions and possibly personal experiences re the merits of a towing dolly versus an A-frame versus a trailer.

 

Regards

Mike

I went for a Aframe to tow our Suzuki Jimmy 2015 no extra braking as like a lot of others out their, no extra charges like rego, wof, that's needed on a trailer, car tows well.

I have purchased a 2015 Jimny manual. Tomorrow I am going to get the tow bar fitted any they tell me that a special surge eliminator has to be fitted. Can any one advise what it is.

 

happy new year all.

 

Just completed my Jimny Aframe works well even when reversing. Just waiting for the relay and Jimny lights to be wired up.

Hi Mike & Chris

I own a Mitsubishi Minicab, which is the same as your Suzuki Carry, and I tow it on an 'A' frame (unbraked) behind my Savannah.

I have towed it for approx 12000 kms without any problems. It only weighs approx 800kgs and tracks beautifully.

It is the handiest vehicle I have ever had, great for on the beach with the kontiki, and up the hill track just to see where it goes.  Go for it.

 

JAS

We have just completed a 6500km trip towing our new Jimny fantastic the best we have had. No problems at all.

Thought I would wrap up the thread by posting a photo of the finished article. The "Carry" has waterproof storage and dedicated racks for our kayaks, paddles and fishing rods. The storage has a lockable side hatch for kayaking gear with a rear dog kennel and it all lifts off in a couple of minutes, easily accomplished by two people.

 

 

As a matter of interest the photo above was taken lunchtime yesterday on SH1 just south of Kaikoura

Mike

I want to fit a towbar and want to choose the simplest and most economic way to install the wiring integrated into the CANBUS system (I have a 2014 Delaware). Has anyone done-it-themselves or have suggestions? Thanks 

I purchase an BRITAX interface from Italian auto Ltd in otahuhu Auckland cost about $230 which I made enough slack in the tail light loom to wire it in the back locker.this needs permanent battery feed 12v + as above behind driver seat 20amp tow fuse.

Great answers guys. Many thanks 

Thanks Rob, fyi I just got a new but unused relay (TEB7AS is the 7-way relay) for $30 off TradeMe. Just the job!

Did you get any feedback from the members??

Hi, did you get any responses to your request for info? I am about to do the same on our 2014 Delaware.

Actually I never fitted it - still in my box of bits, as the last Delaware had a fitted towbar. There's heaps of information on the internet, for example: https://www.towsure.com/fit_a_multiplex_bypass_relay http://www.uk-trailer-parts.co.uk/7-way-universal-bypass-relay-wiring-diagram/ http://www.thomson-caravans.co.uk/advice/caravanadvice/teb7as.htm . If you want my bypass relay you're welcome to make me an offer.  Cheers

 

 

FRIDGE NOT COOLING
AT NZ Facebook post:  Had a problem with our fridge not cooling or freezing at all in our Auto trail FB Tracker. Went into see Paul at Ovaland Motorhomes in Green St Hamilton. Sorted the problem in no time. The gas pipes had rust particles in them and gas could not pass through. He told us that they should be serviced every year or so. Fantastic service. Recommend this company. 

Comment:
  The rust is caused by condensation in the gas lines. 
  That's something to check. Did they replace the pipes ?
  No they cleaned them, didn't need replacing.
  Same issue with our fridge & Paul at Ovaland diagnosed that same problem and fixed today. Interesting.

Hi there,

 

I have a 2016 Auto Trail Imala 720 fitted with REMIS D-IV blinds to the front doors and windscreen.

 

On the drivers side door there is a plastic two part telescopic mechanism which contains the blind itself when opening and closing the blind. The two parts of this telescopic unit are joined by a small black plastic hinge. This hinge has broken and I need a replacement. From the research I have done on the web, buying just the hinge is going to be unlikely. It looks like I will have to buy the complete "Telescopic Guides Ducato (IV) incl. hinge). Part number 10043790.

 

My issues is finding an agent in either NZ or AU who can supply REMIS spares. I have found the exact part I need in the UK but postage alone is over $80. 

 

Does anyone have any suggestions of who to contact in NZ? (I have tried Auckland Motorhomes and am awaiting their reply).

 

Any help would be much appreciated.

 

Cheers

 

Paul

There is a company in Queensland Australia that may be able to help you. I will locate their contact details

Hi there

 

I was hoping someone in the owners club might have previously had some body work repairs done. I have got damage to my roof and also the opening over cab window to my Imala 720.

 

Has anyone had any work done to a good standard anywhere in the Auckland region that they would recommend?

 

Also, would anyone know if there is someone in NZ who I could contact to get the replacement window or do I have to go back to the UK?

 

Any help would be very much appreciated.

 

Cheers

 

Paul 

  Hi Paul

 

I have used South Auckland  Boat Repairs.

They repair motorhomes for several motorhome dealers in Auckland and do an excellent job  

  

Contact Sam 092678498

27 Holmes Rd

Manurewa

Auckland

 

Cheers

John

Great thanks John much appreciated.

Cheers

 

Paul

 

I damaged a couple of rear mouldings on our Delaware and have had difficulty getting parts so that it could be repaired. Apparently, Auckland Motorhomes blacklist any privately imported motorhomes, and refuse to supply parts. Fortunately, for anyone else in this situation, Taranaki RV are more than happy for the extra business, and have been very helpful.

Very helpfull. Will file away just in case. 

Ditto!

If the privately imported are black listed then Autotrail UK should be told what's going on.

I have contacted AMH regarding this and they assure me they do not blacklist owners of imported AutoTrail motorhomes and are happy to supply parts, however some of the parts they carry are not compatible with some imports 

We have also had trouble getting service from AMH. The owner was down right rude to us because we had bought our Autotrail Dakota secondhand from someone who had imported it. Thankfully Ashburton RV have been very helpfull and got any parts we have needed from the UK for us.

David two totally opposing comments the latter is more like what I'm hearing.

Those that have had a bad experience from AMH should make their experiences known to Autotrail UK

I have contacted Autotrail on 4 occasions there reply was to take it up with the NZ agent. Only a concerted aproach by many disgruntled autotrail owners may cause them to investergate what is really happening.

Those of you who have had  bad experiences with AMH will need to detail your experiences to Autotrail UK 

I've emailed AMH twice regarding information I needed on a Autotrail I purchased in UK. When the Motorhome arrived back in NZ the entertainment unit had been removed. I was enquiringly about a replacement. Still waiting for a reply, 6 months later, but have spent $1600 having an Alpine unit installed. 

Returning to the original question, are cracks in the rear moldings repairable? Or do the moldings have to be replaced?

A couple of months ago my A frame detached from the towball and because we were going down hill it unfortunately went forward over the top of the towbar and damaged the rear moulding. The forward momentum stopped when the safety chain reached the end of its travel so the damage is relatively small, about a 150mm vertical rip in the fibreglass and some scratching. As a matter of interest the incident was caused by a failure of the Trojan tow coupling, not by any fault of mine. Trailcom replaced it with a different model which is lockable and a bit more failsafe.

 

A friend of mine who is a retired CPIT engineering and composites tutor has given me a materials list and a complete rundown on the repair which I will do over the winter. A few years ago I did a CPIT spray painting course so I will do the respray but if I can't achieve a perfect finish then I'll rub it down and have it painted professionally. All the advice is not to use gelcoat as it is very hard to colour match.

 

I am quite confident that it will be as good as new so I guess the answer to the question is "yes they are repairable", I'll post some before and after photos when its all done.

Mike

A must for all Fiat chassis motorhomes, especially as we get older (well I am anyway) and as muscles and bones get sore and creaky.  Another benefit is that the bodywork behind the doors gets a bit of protection from stones and dirt thrown up from the tyres.  Available from Nationwide RV (Taranaki RV etc).  The side step is robustly made from aluminium tube and plate welded together with a steel brace underneath bolted to the bodywork to take the vertical loads.  I believe the step is made in NZ by McKechnie Aluminium Solutions.

 

Three 10mm holes need to drilled for each side.  All nuts, bolts and washers are provided and cost about $600 per pair (cheaper at the MH shows).  All up it took me about an hour each side to install the side steps on my Tribute T720.  I had previously helped my brother install side steps on his CI Prestige van (bit like a Fiat courier van).  I imagine they will fit all Auto Trail motorhomes but check with the side step supplier.

 

 

BIKE RACK ADAPTOR FOR WITTER TOWBAR
AT NZ Facebook post:  The bike rack adaptor for Witter detachable towball has now been tested & finalised. We took it away this weekend and were very happy with the rack being 180mm higher than when it was on the Witter tow ball.  A interesting side effect of the extra height is that the bike handle bars are just above the spare tyre cover and they no longer rub against it. 
The prototype has been tested with 50kg (the weight of two heavy e-bikes) using a Thule 932 rack. A very small deflection of 2 degrees in the adaptor was measured when the weight was applied at the rear extremity of the rack. This was not good enough for the engineer so a strengthening rib was added for the production model. 
The adaptor is now available with it’s legally required label stating ‘For Bike Rack Only’ and ‘Maximum of two bikes’. Richmond Industries (Web: Towbar Shop) now have the adaptor available for $400 plus GST.
The contact is Richard Stephen Email: Richard@richmonds.nz Tel: 0800 800 112 Mob: 027 445 0283

 

Les

Looks good!!

Can this adaptor be locked on to the vehicle like the Witter detachable towbar?

Fitting the bike adaptor entails removing the Witter detachable tow ball and inserting the new adaptor in its place along with a securing bolt through existing holes. (It is not key locked)  This is for a bike rack only and NOT FOR TOWING. The original Witter tow ball can be reinserted for towing.  The design required no change being made to the tow bar as this would require a new certification for COF vehicles.

You will also need to change the way the trailer light connector is mounted as it ends up being lower than the tow bar and is likely to be wiped out

The connector can be screwed to the plastic valance or a new mounting bracket made to replace the original

See pix on face book page
 

Forgot to add - jolly good product -

BIKE RACK ON WITTER TOWBALL
AT NZ Facebook Post:    Have just find out that we can't put the bike rack fitted on the back but has to go on the towball... really disappointed as we are planning on towing. Maybe at those times we could put our bikes in the trailer. Anyway, what brand bike racks does one recommend and any tips would be helpful?

Comments:

 
-  We had trouble with the original rack we bought as we couldn’t secure it on the type of ball the auto trails have and after spending several hundred dollars and still not finished spending found a add for Precision Imports.co.nz and found the Diamant two bike rack which is made especially for our type of tow ball and canned all we had done and purchased one. We are so happy as all we had to do was unpack it put it on to towbar and plug in lights and we were done. We purchased a supplementary number from NZTA. They are well worth the money as the security is fantastic. I wrote and told them how happy we were with it and they said anyone I referred to them via email hello@precisionimports.co.nz they will give you 10%off RRP. Ours are ebikes so are quite heavy and it handles them well.

-  We are worried about that. We are looking at the Thule easyfold which requests a 50MM ISO complaint tow ball. I will look into it further.

-  They do come with a 50mm ball but make sure they realise they are hockey stick like ball and most of the one we had looked at needed the plate under the ball to stop it twisting.

-  I have a English Witter tow bar fitted on my AT. I purchased a torpedo 7 tow bar mounted bike rack low level carries 3 bikes. I had no problems carrying bikes around the SI. As a precaution I checked the tightening screw every day.

-  We are using a Thule rack with two E bikes on a UK fitted Witter Tow bar with 50mm Ball, have spent 4 weeks so far in SI and no issue on security of attachment to ball. Only issue is it is all very low to ground so we will need to look at how to raise eg weld a 200mm extension to gooseneck, but then we can’t use for towing of course.

-  We have the same problem. Looking at options to buy a second gooseneck with longer vertical section. Witter extremely unhelpful but found a source that sells a large range of goosenecks for the Witter system.  Sorted now by fitting a new bracket onto the Witter tow bar and a receiver type hitch that can accommodate a standard receiver for towing.  Raised the bike rack by over 150 mm. No risk of touching the ground now.  Requires Certification if on a COF MH.

-  See also the adaptor design that is progressing in our face book group, that may provide an off the shelf solution to plug in like the Witter gooseneck ball.

 

- Can you tell us who the source of goosenecks is that fit the Witter towbar sockets as I would like a receiver type hitch to mount a bike rack on?

 

TOWBAR ON TRACKER FB
AT NZ Facebook post:   Sorted the problem with the towbar and bike rack hanging too low. Got the towbar fitted with a new receiver type hitch set at 150mm above the old towball. Bike rack is now well clear of the ground.

 

Comments:

 

- Did you originally have a gooseneck witter tow ball and did you change the whole drawbar or just the hitch?
- Had the original Witter towbar with gooseneck. Unbolted the whole gooseneck locking assembly, but then opted to cut off the plates and weld on the receiver assembly to the Witter towbar.  Extremely happy with the result.  Work was done by Richmond Industries in Naenae. HYPERLINK "https://www.towbarshop.co.nz/" https://www.towbarshop.co.nz
- They charged $450 for the Tracker FB.
-  This towbar  modification does not require certification as it is a WOF.  Any change on a COF requires re-certification

 

WHEEL ARCH FLARES

AT NZ Facebook post:  I am looking to find information/pictures about fitting mud flaps (or should I say extra mud flappy bits - technical term!) to our motorhome.

 
Comment:

  If you mean “flares” for the edge of your mudguard these are available in two sizes. 41 mm and 60mm and are 3000 mm long, enough to do 1 pair of mudguards. I suggest you use the smaller size and these cost $99 from a 4WD drive business in Auckland. Look on Trademe or search google. I used the 41mm and they look and work perfectly. Easy enough to fit. Self taping screws and then a piece of wire is pushed through tubular hole in outside edge to stiffen the rubber.  PHOTO #1
  Purchased them from HYPERLINK "http://www.mudstuck.co.nz" www.mudstuck.co.nz for $99.00 plus a bit of freight. Excellent service, so I recommend them.
  Got mine from Repco. 

 

 

Question please:  Anyone who has purchased a solar cover from Aussie, does it fit right over the vents in the bonnet of the vehicle and is it heavy enough to stay flat in a reasonable wind?  Thanks, Pete

Hi yes to your Questions.....Look under A/T accessories...Thermal Blanket...Les

I agrre - fits over the vents, and we had it on in the storm over New Year - it didnt move at all.

Thanks for the replies, I did see it  but wanted to make sure, and off course they are out of stock until Feb, if not later.  A pity someone here doesn't import them in.

 

We were parked at Iveagh bay for a week before xmas facing west with no shade from the sun and a strongish afternoon seabreeze most days. The temperature inside was always cool and the wind didn't worry the solarscreen although we had to take the awning down every day. Thoroughly recommended and I doubt that they would be any cheaper from a NZ store... the only reason they are out of stock in Queensland is because a whole bunch of people from this forum bought them all

https://www.leisureshopdirect.com/caravan-accessories/caravan-blinds/motorhome-thermal-screens-motorhome-thermal-blinds/thermal-exterior-blinds-for-motorhomes

The above have these but problem of getting over here I have used them and they posted

Just back from my holiday, moho cleaned and new screen fitted, very happy with it.  Thought those of you wanting to see how they fitted might like to see these -_-

 

Does yours have a skirt fitted to cover the vents Sue?  The one I got didn't cover them and lifted in the wind.

As per photo above, I don't think there's a skirt attached but vents are well covered.  Will be interesting to see how in performs in Welly winds!

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FIAT-DUCATO-06-15-Motorhome-Exterior-External-Window-Thermal-Blinds-Screen-Cover/111576846398?hash=item19fa7f903e:g:DP0AAOSwcBhWYsRM

 

see that the above will send to NZ 

A bit more on this topic under "Winscreen Thermal Blanket" Regards IanG

Finding the best way to transport bikes on cars and campers has been and issue with me for years but now now we are the proud owners of an Apache 634 we have found what for us is almost an ideal solution. Having had to remove the bed from above the cab we've found this space provides a perfect place for bike storage. Yes, I have to remove the front wheels and pedals (stowed in the boot) and yes, I have to be careful that I don't sratch the furniture when loading but the bikes ride securely, stay dry, don't get covered in dust / filth and are out of sight and safe. I use two 'removers blankets' (the grey posh ones) bought from Mitre 10 for about 10$ each to protect the bikes and camper. Definitely our best solution yet!

Hi Martin

 

We are in the process of buying our Apache 634 (curently in production-we take possession early May in England)

We are thinking folding bikes might be the way to go while we tiki tour around Europe.

Do you or any other Apache 634 owner have the dimmensions of the garage space so we can buy our bikes to fit.

Cant see the size anywhere on the specs.

Thanks

I can't answer fully at the moment as there are two issues to consider and it will take time to measure up. They are the dimensions of the boot door (easy) and the fact that the rear seat is supported by a framework that, although it takes up minimal space, makes storing bulky objects difficult. I'll try to get more information to you in a couple of days.

The boot opening is 740 x450 and the boot goes through the full width of the van, 2150 internal so the whole boot is 2150. However the support for the rear seat is 670 from the door on either side. This means that at either side there is 670 x 900 of usable space joined by a centre section that is 800 x 650. I hope this makes sense!

Hi Jim and Jill

We have been full time for two years and have stayed at 85 camp grounds todate.  Bikes are very popular, I would guess well over a third of vans or maybe even fifty pc have bike carrier racks on the rear.  In all of that time and destinations I have only noticed a couple of fold up bikes?  I suspect that folding bikes are just not popular.  I am not a bike expert but I suspect the folding mechanism adds to the weight, and the smaller wheels makes them unstable?  On the other hand electric bikes are very common here amongst retired people, and they are much heavier.  

As an aside, in Spain where “we” hang out over winter it strikes me as very “cute” to see many pairs of bikes tied together outside the cafes and supermarkets.  It also amazes and impresses me how many quite elderly people are energetically cycling.

Enjoy your trip.

 

John M

PS

Just arrived back in Kent to have the vehicles serviced and MOT.  

Expecting deep snow this weekend!  Not at all like Spain’s costas with their perpetual summer!

>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

SOLAR SCREEN

NRF CABIN COVER  $280 AU  DELIVER TO NZ

Ring 09 8876977 NZ to ring Aussie

Les

>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

Excellent Cover Stops water and keeps the cab cool well worth purchasing. Les 

My NRF windscreen blanket has started to crack on the outer surface and I'm presuming it is not UV stabilised? The cover is only 5 months old and not used many times.  I also found the material snags easily on anything rough, I sat the cover on my trailer and when I picked it a very small wood slinter snagged and tore the material.  A couple of photos attached.  Bike tyre patches cover the tears from the trailer and duct tape covers the cracked material.  I have sent pictures to Solarscreen the supplier also.
Being the one who introduced these covers to the group I though I'd better let you know to treat them very carefully.
Regards IanG

 

Thanks Ian. As one of many who has one on order I'll be interested to see what response you get from Solarscreen: a thoughtful and useful post.

I received this email from Solarscreen on Feb 18,2018 in response to my enquirer on a windscreen thermal blanket.

 

Hi Peter,

 

Thanks for your email. We have had a product that does this but are now out of stock.

 

We don’t make them they come from Europe. I don’t think they are suitable for the Australian climate, I have had negative reports from customers who have them and we may not stock any in the future.

 

We are considering making an external unit using a material more suited to our climate and conditions, probably be something like curtain side.

 

So i can’t help you at this time.

 

 

Kind Regards,

Alan

SOLARSCREEN

 

Regards

 

Peter

We also made enquiries regarding this solarscreen.Below is the response we received today 27/02/2018.

 

Hi Marilyn

 

Thank you for your enquiry regarding the NRF External Blind to suit you Fiat Ducato.

 

Currently we are out of stock. Estimating received new stock in March. I am compiling a list of NZers interested in the product. If you would like to join the list please reply with your address details.

 

PRICES 

Prices for a FIAT DUCATO 2006 - 2017  NRF (909FD3) EXTERENAL BLIND  are as follows;

 

NRF 909FD3  – AU$280.00 

 

 

FREIGHT  - International Express Courier is included in the price. The transit time is 3 to 5 days on average.

 

 

So now we are not sure what is going on ??

 

Marie Plank

Don't progress with the purchase we are getting mixed messages from the supplier

Solarscreen offered me a new cover or my money back, so I opted for the new cover which I received a couple of months ago and have coated with Aerospace 303 Protectant on the outer side.  I will only use this cover when we are travelling and limit the UV exposure.  The old cracked cover I took to a canvas supplier to attach a thin white marine vinyl canvas over the existing outer. It has made it a bit heavier but I use this when parked up at home keeping the sun out and preventing that pesky water ingress at the edges of the scuttle to windscreen seal, pics below.  Regards IanG

Hi 

    Looking for seat covers, try Rubbertree.co.nz  material covers for $119.00.for fiat Ducato.

       Grant R.

       

We are having problems sourcing seat covers for the driver and passenger seats in our Apache.

We live in Orewa in Auckland and have been to Repco and Super Cheap to no avail.Whatever they have doesn’t fit or they ,maybe don’t want to anything about it.

Any suggestions would appreciated. They are the standard seats used in all Fiats as far as we can see.

Hi Richard, we live part of the year in Australia and there is a company that custom make seat covers we had a set made and bought home to NZ, they made a good job and even put the fiat logo in the centre. wasnt cheap but are comfortable and look good. i could look out the company name if you want.

 

 

Thanks Jimit but have found a set locally 

 

We are thinking of putting a bike rack on our 2014 Tracker FB.  Due to the position of the spare wheel a slight problem has developed into whether we have one that fits above the spare, or do we get a tow bar fitted just for carrying the bike.  Any suggestions/ideas would be welcomed and who is a reputable installer?  Thanks, Pete

On our 2017 Delaware a rear-panel-mounted bike rack is not an option so we had to go with towbar mounted model. Works fine but increases risk of grounding and increases overall vehicle length. If we had the choice we would definitely go with rack mounted onto back of vehicle.

Hi Pete, I have a Tracker, my bike rack goes over the wheel. It was installed by Auckland Motorhomes ( Roger) and it has been great.

i can send you a photo if you send me your mobile number if you wish. Mine is 0212228982. 

Cheers 

My FB has a Fiamma 2 bike rack fitted over the wheel cover. I also have a factory fitted ladder and it all fits. 

 

I fitted a Fiama Bike Lift 77 to our 2014 Delaware.  The Delaware has an externally mounted spare wheel.  Our bike weigh 12 and 17 kg each, so lifting these up onto a fixed bike rack mounted above the spare wheel was only get harder as we age.  There is also a risk of shoulder injury lifting these masses above shoulder height.  

 

There are also some videos showing how it works.  In short, the tracks where the bike wheels sit is wound down, put the bikes in as normal on a Fiama rack, and wind it back up.  One issue is that the reversing camera is obscured by the rack and bikes.

 

The rack is not cheap, about $1300 dollars plus fitting.  While expensive I thought it was money well spent to prevent injury and stopping me from travelling with bikes.

 

Hope this helps inform your decision.

 

Peter

 

The above image is my 2015 Tracker FB with a Fiamma 2 bike rack fitted over the spare wheel. It is tight however it works fine for us. Cheers, Gary

Hi, I am looking at the possibility of fitting the Fiamma cycle rack designed for ATs to the rear of our 2017 FB Tracker. As the hexagonal spare wheel cover is larger than the earlier models circular cover I'm expecting the rack will need modifying. Is anyone aware of an alternative rack that might fit? The two vertical rails need to be approximately 1000mm apart.

I would also like to relocate the spare wheel and sling it under the vacant chassis space behind the back wheels to achieve better weight distribution. Has anyone experience in doing this? The Tracker is COF so any bracket will need certification.

I’ve been concerned with how I would get my Fiat FWD motorhome out of the mud if I got stuck.  I purchased the Milenco Grip Mats for about $28 which are great to park on if the grass is soft, but wanted something more.  I purchased one Cirtex Grass Pave mat (details below) and cut it in half length ways by hand saw so I now have two 816 x 306mm mats.  This was tested recently when a 2WD ute near I was parked was stuck on soft grass nearly up to the axles.  The Milenco Grip Mats were placed hard against the rear tyes and the cut down Grass Pave mats next as a run out ramp.  All went well - the ute gained enough momentum on the mats and was driven clear albeit through very soft ground.  Two of the Grass Pave mats could be interlocked together but I don’t know if the plastic would sustain the loads when flexing on soft ground.  However I figure that my 3500kg motorhome should fit inside the weight limits.  And best of all, the mats weigh very little and when stored on their edge, take up very little space in a locker.

 

Cirtex 816 x 612 x 40mm Grass Pave

Bunnings SKU: 08906985

$21.90

Able to withstand 700 tonnes per m2 (when filled)
Panels interlock securely

I have a 2014 Delaware and we have a towball - fitted Thule bike rack.  We have two electric bikes (about 25kg each) one with crossbar and one step-thru. With the long Delaware overhang the bike rack grounds continually despite great care and 45 degree approaches.  We really need a rack that sits higher.  Are there any racks that would fit to the towball but sit higher or do we need to get a rack permanently fitted to the back of the van.  We did meet a couple a while ago with a manual lift rack that seemed to work for them but cannot recall any details.  Would apreciate some advice hear.  Many thanks...

We had the same problem and fortunately the Bike Shed on sold our Thule Bike Rack, we now have a standard prong type bike rack which works okay, we do have to use an extra strap for the step through electric bike.

 

I have the Thule bike rack too and have the same problem with my Comanche.

You can get a steel riser. You take the tow ball off, bolt on the riser, then attach the towball to the top of the riser.

I have seen one advertised somewhere, it gave an additional 6 inches of height, but unfortunately cannot remember where.

I will have to go to an engineering shop and get one made.

Hope this helps

Thanks for the advice.  The steel riser sounds a good option.  Extra 6 inches would make all the difference.

 

This may seem a trivial issue, but does anyone have any ideas of how to fit a cup holder or two in the cab of our Tracker.  Most modern vehicle come with them.

 

I didnt have one either but I went to one of the auto shops..like Repko but it wasnt that one...it was the opposition...cant think of the name and they sell removeable ones that fit into the air vent...mine works well...Good luck Michele Leith

I bought these on eBay and clip them over middle locker under heater controls. 

I did have to modify them with black tape. But they work fine.https://www.ebay.com.au/p/?iid=272055427763&chn=ps&&&ul_ref=http%253A%252F%252Frover.ebay.com%252Frover%252F1%252F705-139619-5960-0%252F2%253Fmpre%253Dhttp%25253A%25252F%25252Fwww.ebay.com.au%25252Fitm%25252Flike%25252F272055427763%25253Fchn%25253Dps%252526chn%25253Dps%252520%2526itemid%253D272055427763%2526targetid%253D91828859377%2526device%253Dt%2526adtype%253Dpla%2526googleloc%253D9069129%2526poi%253D%2526campaignid%253D184043497%2526adgroupid%253D8467825417%2526rlsatarget%253Dpla-91828859377%2526abcId%253D%2526merchantid%253D9549522%2526gclid%253DCI3X4rCUsNQCFZAEKgodzh8CBw%2526srcrot%253D705-139619-5960-0%2526rvr_id%253D1227624086146&chn=ps

thanks for your help Leith, Grant and Gail.

Can anyone suggest a place for us to buy a cover at a reasonable price for our 7.6m Apache?

We got ours just recently from: http://www.coverworldnz.com/motor-home-covers/

 

The cut on the Class B Motorhome covers was good, although we are going to retrofit it with an additional front to back strap under the vehicle as the front slides up the bonnet in a high wind.

If you're interested we have a 9m x 4m framed canvas 'garage' which will be surplus to requirements at end of April (or possibly before).  It's less than a year old. Currently contains our Delaware (7.9m) but we're shifting at beginning of May and have acquired a shed big enough for us. martin.sydenham@gmail.com if you're interested.

 

Hi Helen and Barry

 

Yes we  have an unused , brand new cover which we no longer need,  that will fit your motorhome    I live in Tauranga area  if you  email  Mike my partner 0n m25machinery@yahoo.co.nz  or phone him 02108661039  or 075526725  he will give you all the details         Hope this will help       Cheers Joyce

Hi 

we are  new to auto trail have a Tracker both new 8 months ago- We were surprised every time we took off how water leaked from above over the windscreen. We can view the roof from a deck and note where the water collects - about one third back just in front of the Sat dish- there is also some black marking here probably dust from the nearby Mount wharf like what I presume we have on our decks Anyhow-  my question “ can you just get on a ladder and get up with a broom and wash it standing on the roof”? Bill and Julie 

Hi autotraillers 

how do you clean the roof?

can you stand on it?

Every time we drive off we have a gush of water from the roof in front of the aerials? In this area it is “ black as” ? Mould

any clues.

thanks heaps Bill and Julie 

Put a padded ladder against the side and clean it with a long handled washing brush then spray with "Wet and Forget" or similar. If you park it outside at home try to arrange it so that your park is on a slope sufficient to stop the water pooling. Run the front wheels onto wooden blocks perhaps.

I personally wouldn't walk on the roof for fear of upsetting the sealing around aerials etc but I'm sure it is strong enough.

 

Mike

Also have a look under Autotrail Issues >> Autotrail Tips and Help >> Cleaning roof of motorhome & Ladder type to access roof to clean

thanks a lot guys sorry about the repeat didn’t think it had gone thru the first time

                       

 

DOES THE OUTSIDE HANDLE NZ CONDITIONS
AT NZ Facebook Post:
   I am interested in an Autotrail Dakota and was wondering if they are specially built to handle NZ UV conditions. I live in Foxton. I do paintings and will use the motorhome to travel the South Island" What can you tell him about a Dakota.

Comments:

 

- I have a tribute and no the fiberglass front is not designed for NZ conditions, I'm off to Burnsco to find out what they use to protect boats.

 

- We put Seal X on our Apache. You can do it yourself (as we did-bought it at Auckland Motorhomes) or have it done professionally.

 

- We did ours in 2014 and it cost around $300 for the kit so probably dearer now. It did keep the van looking great. Someone in Whangarei used to apply it too. Have a look online. It took hubby about 10 hours to apply it all but worthwhile.

 

- I've own a Dakota, coming up 4 years now and has always been outside. And no problems so far. After the dreadful weather of the last 12 months got it chem washed and it looks smart.

 

- This has opened an interesting discussion. While the GRP panels used are not specifically designed for NZ they certainly have to perform in extreme conditions in Europe from freezing in the north to the extreme heat of Spanish summers. The GRP product is widely used in Motorhome construction so there is now thousands in NZ. (probably over 400 Autotrails).

 
The GRP panels are manufactured by combining thousands of glass strands with pigmented thermosetting UV resins. This produces immensely strong and durable panels where aluminium or steel materials cannot meet required specifications and standards such as impact resistance and weight implications.

That doesn’t say that it will perform in NZ & Australian conditions but its wide use on Moho’s and boats should identify failings very quickly. On my boat it is the decals that have been the first to show fatigue from the sun & salt.

 

- Just make sure you treat it twice a year with a good quality wax product. Left untreated the FRP will loose its gloss finish after spending time in the sun

 

- We own a 2012 Dakota, my wife and I have lived in it for 3 years and clean it when we can with xt88 and this has been excellent as far as uv goes we have no issues to date.

I have looked into the problem of UV in New Zealand conditions.

after talking with a fiberglass person with many years in the fiberglass industry here and in the UK. He told me that in the UK and Europe they are restricted to the chemicals they are allowed to use. But in New Zealand to overcome the problem of UV they use chemicals formulated for New Zealand bad UV climate. Hence Gelcoat problems we are seeing. Auckland is the worst due to the narrow land mass they get a double whammy with water reflection. 

 

 

Hi,

We park our motorhome at the side of the house under some trees. The roof gets pretty dirty and its obviously hard to clean, how do others clean the roof and is it safe to use products like "Wet & Forget"?

Thanks Jack

 

Hi Jack, I just spent the weekend cleaning mine.  I used a spray on product Glaze I think it was (bought from Bunnings) but next time I'd be tempted to use wet and forget, a lot less labour intensive!

Thanks Sue,

The vans are pretty high so you certainly need a spray-on product to break down the grime

cheers

My Tracker is stored in the open so the roof is in need of TLC regularly. Before and after every trip I wash all the accumulated dirt etc with a high pressure washer. If there is any mould I spray a little "exitmould" on the area and wipe off before washing the full roof with car wash then rinse with the hose. If you do this regularly if it does not take too much time. Twice a year I polish the roof with marine fibreglass polish. The roof is in good condition after almost 3 years. The fixed factory fitted ladder does reduce the potential for falls, a must have IMHO. Cheers,

 

 

        25mm Vent Pipeup high in Gas Locker                             Top Right inlet from Waste Tanks to Gas Locker.

                                                                                                  Left going down to chassi rail then out to rear axle.

 

  

 

Vent Pipe from Gas Locker down along Chassi Rail at         Vent Pipe from both Tanks run along under floor at that    that level to rear axle.                                                              level no sags in pipe.

 

( Note Gas Locker Insulation with white corrugated Board )

 

 

 

New Chrome Waste and S Trap

Existing Grey Flexable fits into trap with rubber collar sleeve, do up nut 

New Chrome Waste and P Trap 

Existing Grey flexable pipe fits into p trap with it's rubber sleave collar then do up nut.

New Canvas Privay Strip, Toilet Door is so easy to open and shut now.         ( Sample Above Tan )

Fit by cutting off 25mm each side of old stiff Plastic Hindge and placing on edge of canvas in the same place.

Purchased from Taranaki RV  $90

Spotlight Store. Canvas is a bit short so need to add on a piece. $30

 

Take out Microwave, Fit Rollar door, allowing easy access to crockery in new cupboard

Shelf removed from bottom of cupbard moved up,  Placed in middle with small angle brackets. 2$ Shop

Removed plastic edging strip from back of overhead bedroom cupboard at rear middle shelf and fit on new kitchen shelf. More Kitchen Storage

 

Removed 10amp Tracer it seem to have a confict with the 30amp Tracer I have programmed to User settings.

 

Voltronic monitor for overall controll of my system.

 

 

Transfer Pump Fresh Water Left.     Changes to my wiring for circuit protection.

 

 

206 Litres Waste Water 

 

Existing 86 litre tank with new 120 litre middle tank ( Waste Grey water ), note 32mm linked waste pipe at either end linking both tanks, one 32mm balance pipe between top of both tanks plus 25mm breather pipe at top.

 

 

 

 

                                                                                                                         206 Litres of Fresh Water

 

New 70 litre above. 32mm flexible pipe up into gas locker for tank fresh water filling. 15mm pipe that is plumb through to transfer pump, other side of transfer pump is to the existing 136 litre tank at back of van is joined to one of the four air vent pipes at the top of existing tank. the other three vent pipes are joined and one is taken to a high point, This system allows the transfer of fresh water when the sargent water gauge gets low above door and I can watch the gauge coming up to full again.

Exisiting 100 watt Solar Panel moved around + 2 x 150 Watt Solar Panels.

Porta Bote 3.3 metre

Left changed over existing Regulator to 10 amp tracer MPPT.. Tracer 30 amp for other 300 watt on roof

300 amp Lithium Battery

Circuit Breakers, Shunt, Bus Bars

Inverter 2000 Watt

Lay back on front seat to watch TV

Fitted Accumulator Tank to smooth out water flow

 

 

 

I love your set up Les! We have a 2016 Amala with the standard UK solar set up (100 watts I think) Do you know if the factory  solar controller is MPPT? If it is not, is there an advantage in changing it? Would I get a noticeable increase in charging? We have 2 batteries around 220 amp hours total.

When ,eventually, we upgrade our panels is the existing wiring suitable?

I will be interested to hear your comments.

ooooh ! Loving this !!!!!

I’m thinking that 500w is probably about right for winter offsite camping , so I’m probably going to get all these modifications done, I just need to work out if it’s cheaper here or in NZ

Awesome set up !

Hi Dave, The factory controller is not MPPT and can only handle 120 watts MPPT Which they will work in 20% of sun light better charging, the wiring going to the 100 watt panel is only suitable for it. Read inthe forum under A/T Solar

Hi This is my third set up as above, Battery is charged by 8.00am in each morning, Trouble free set up...... I never go on Power except the Fridge at times, Better if you wont a long life from your Battery......But this time I installed a Voltronic meter with a 200 amp shunt and a 200 amp Solenoid that is a computer in it self. Which controlls the solenoid Problems due to a conflict between systems meaning with the Sargent PSU. It shuts the whole system down by warning of low voltage. System working OK now.

Elliot, when comparing UK and NZ prices, factor in the warranty should you have problems. One of the 3 extra solar panels fitted to our Delaware had faulty internal wiring. Our lithium battery has a 10 year warranty, and was replaced when the Votronic controller tried to keep the fridge running after the gas ran out while under cover.

 

Also, if you're fitting everything yourself, be sure to protect the shunt circuitry from road dust, which can attract moisture and cause the system to think the battery is charged when it's not.

Thanks for this information , extremely useful - have to say Les it's pretty much what I want to retrofit onto my Delaware. Point taken Chris on the warranty...wise words!

 

Les - if you don't mind, did you fit all this yourself or have a specialist fit it?

I don't have the skills to do this myself ,although I'm supreme at researching options and choosing the right equipment etc

 

Which NZ suppliers/fitters can people recommend ? My Delaware will be arriving into Tauranga but I'm not necessarily restricted to having it retro-fitted in that area.

 

I've come across these guys :- www.absolutepower.co.nz/
any feedback on them appreciated

 

Thanks again

Also contact AA Solar the are nust north of Auckland and offer great products and duscounts to NZMCA members www.aasolar.co.nz

Hi Elliot, AA Solar did our solar panels and lithium battery upgrade. Been very happy with the results. Their website isn't flash, but Pierre knows the technology inside out. He also provides a 10 year conditional warranty on the lithium battery. 

 

I particularly like the Votronic controller. The meter is intuitive and easy to understand, compared with some others I've seen.

Thanks again guys. So happy I found this forum - it's been really useful.

I'll contact AA and discuss options.

 

 

 

I dropped AA Solar an email a week or so ago but havent had any reply - anyone know if they are still trading? I'm wondering if they are out on holidays ...

Yes they are still trading. I phoned and talked with Pierre Athens, the owner this morning, email him on pierre@aasolar.co.nz

I also found them a bit slow in answering emails but when I phoned them they were very helpful and apologised for the delay in answering emails but said they get overloaded with emails sometimes. Otherwise very happy with their products and service

Did AA Solar change the charger?? Coen the new owner of AA Solar said that it is a different charging techology than that if the EC500.

There is a model of solar controller - Tracker (BN Series - MPPT) which explicitly supports Lithium. Generally when adding solar panels people bypass the Sargent controller so its limitations are not an issue - for example, I have a 40A controller which supports up to around 120V of serial-connected panels, 400W in my case, none of which goes via EC500.

Hi Avocadodopicker,

Many thnaks for the feedback.

I understand the solar panel implications and the use of an appropriate controller, so how does the Lithium battery get charged when yiu are on a LV (230VAC ) supply? do you have  a circuit diagram of what you have done?

I am hesitant to go the Lithium way after reading and seeing burnt up EC500 from UK.

Cheers

Just noticed this post. When (very rarely) on EHU, the lithium battery is charged by the Sargent 12V charger. Sargent have said that this charger isn't rated for more than 200AH of battery, as it's not expected to carry a heavy charge load for the length of time it would take to charge a heavily discharged larger capacity battery. Hasn't been an issue for us as 300AH battery never goes below about 80% anyway. Only downside is that the Sargent controller can only see the charge from mains charger (but not solar), so over time if you don't EHU, the Sargent panel over the door shows the wrong state of charge for the leisure battery (as it's not involved in charging it). The Votronics meter takes care of that instead.

Removed 10amp Tracer it seem to have a confict with the 30amp Tracer I have programmed to User settings.

 

Votronic Monitor overall controll of my system

Transfer Pump Fresh Water Left.     Changes to my wiring for circuit protection.

 

 

206 Litres Waste Water 

 

Existing 86 litre tank with new 120 litre middle tank ( Waste Grey water ), note 32mm linked waste pipe at either end linking both tanks, one 32mm balance pipe between top of both tanks plus 25mm breather pipe at top.

 

 

 

206 Litres of Fresh Water

 

New 70 litre above. 32mm flexible pipe up into gas locker for tank fresh water filling. 15mm pipe that is plumb through to transfer pump, other side of transfer pump is to the existing 136 litre tank at back of van is joined to one of the four air vent pipes at the top of existing tank. the other three vent pipes are joined and one is taken to a high point, This system allows the transfer of fresh water when the sargent water gauge gets low above door and I can watch the gauge coming up to full again.

 

CRACK IN REAR SKIRT PANEL
AT NZ Facebook post:  Don't back your pride and joy into your fence. Lesson learned. [Photos 1 & 2]
Comment:
* A plastic welder will fix that easly Jenny. Shouldn't cost much at all.
* I’m afraid it does cost quite a bit from our experience?
* Was terrified that would happen to us so we have put a nudge bar around the back to prevent that. Ali Arc did ours in Wanganui.
* Are you able to post a picture of your bumper, what was the cost and how long did Ali Arc need the camper for.
* Costs us just over $1500. We dropped ours off on a Sunday night and picked up a couple of days later as that suited us.... but I would say a day or over night. They were very professional [See Photo 3]
* $230 will buy you a new skirt panel.
* I have done this exercise, to replacement onto the camper is not a simple task as I was shown. This damage is a lot less than the hole I had on mine when I bought it. The repair would not require a $230 new replacement plus fitting it costs. The miner repair by reputable plastic welder would not require removal from the camper. I would be surprised if it costs more than $100 to repair.
* Clean the outside and on the inside. Buy some spouting adhesive white.  Squeeze into the crack and use tape to pull joint back together. Once dry cut off excess with a sharp blade. Cut in polish and its hard to notice. $25
We did that was welded but cracked again. Got a new panel to replace it.

 

Our Comanche came with a solid looking bar across the rear that is part of the tow bar.  It is bolted to the two longitudinal chassis members so is way stronger than the one shown above.  However, the five tonnes of our loaded van verses a small 80 mm diameter sapling bent the bar like butter.  We didn’t even feel it.  Cracked the corner skirt.  

 

Skirt repairs are a hazard of the hobby unfortunately.

 

A more recent disaster, caught the drivers side on a lump of concrete on the end of an Armco barrier.  Never saw the concrete block, it was very low, tight traffic forced me towards the barrier.

Heard the exhaust hit then the waste water tap hit and broke then scrapped the lower edges of the rear wheel well skirt where it protrudes beyond the body skirt.  I have repaired the tap from my plumbing kit.  We carry 15 m of flexible pipe on the roof plus a selection of fittings for use in our fully serviced pitches while wintering over in Spain, so never short of make shift repairs here.

John M 

Somewhere in the Tirol 

GRAB Handle

 

  I have an apache 634, the grab handle to assist entering the van door is attached to the panel covering the fridge, the handle is coming loose. I can see 4 screws securing the fridge in place. If I pull the fridge out is the gas pipes flexible enough to come out with the fridge. 

Comments:

*  Remove the outside cover of the handle using an allen key on the inside of the curved handle. Then you will be able to tighten the retaining screws from the front of the handle on the door side without removing fridge.

 

Hi,can any one confirm what type of plastic Plas-tech would have used for the manufacturer of my Apache 700 2012 shower base.

Need to get it Plastic welded but need to know material type.

 

Thanks Richard

Hi Richard

The most reliable answer would come from Autotrail, you will get a faster reply by phoning their technical support.

John

Glasgow

Richard, you might find it more satisfactory to use a complete shower base repair such as here: https://www.affordablecaravans.co.nz/Speedcoat-Shower-Tray-Repair-System - the product doesn't seem obviously supported in Australia, but if you Google plastic shower repair there are heaps of people claiming to do that...... problem is that the crack may be indicative of a general failure/weakness of the plastic base, and a complete cover-it-all repair might be a better long-term fix.

Apachee 700. Three of the blinds now have broken pins. These are integral to the holding of the wires, important as one needs total blackout for sleep/privacy. Any information out there for repair or replacement. 

i hvae a problem fitting runners fro the front bed make up 

It is a new 2016(model) regn new 2018 FB Tracker

It is for 2 persons - ie 2 seatbelts,

We want to "stretch out" and use the French bed at the resr for one and the make front bed for the other,

NZ rules ( ? stupid) state thatthis would be trested as a fourberth and it is not allowed.

WE would like to fitrunners and use as we wish with no breaking of the rules.

It is hard to work the installation of the runners.

Any tips ant one ?

Bill and Julie 

It is likely that the extension slides of the front bed have been immobilised by a couple of woodscrews on each side, our Dakota was. Remove the screws and the bed should be good to use... I can't imagine they will be checked for any other reason than certification but put them back for WOF checks if you feel that it is necessary

Thanks Mike and Chris

You have reassured me to get stuck in

Is it possible to repair the cord on the roof vent blind/fly screen? This is the large roof vent.Leo

Yes, if not actually broken.  We had a rear window blind collapse on us, the blind fell out of the frame.   

 

To repair it I had to take the blind frame out of the wall.  That is not hard  to do, just half a dozen screws.  Start by gently prising off the corner pieces.  Then it all becomes obvious.

Lay the blind assembly flat on a table.

In our case one of the two cords had stretched by only a few millimetres and that allowed it to come off its tracks.

You need to figure out how it functions, impossible to explain here, but you will find it is a symmtrical cord arrangement.  At the end of the cord there is a clamp that holds it tight, in our case I had to restring the cord and adjust those two clamps (on either cord) to get it working symmetrically.  

But in order to restring it I had to dismantle the frame by releasing corner screws.  Be careful as the whole thing can then fall apart, I released one corner at a time, did what I had to do then reassembled and did the same in another corner, then repeat.

sounds horrific but not too hard once you work out how it works.

 

The skylight will be similar.  To remove the inner window frame, start by prising off the perforated panels.  That will reveal the mounting screws.  The handle needs to come off first, then I expect the whole thing will fall out of the ceiling.

 

Hope that helps. 

John

Costa Blanca 

 

I've done 3 window blinds now - in each case the cord had frayed or broken. As John described, it's easy to do, but you need to be careful. You can buy replacement cord at any supplier of window blinds - I bought mine from Kresta.

We have a problem with our side market lights not working on our 2015 Savannah. We have found one fuse behind drivers seat that appears to be ok. Any suggestions on where to look next?

Is it all of them or just some?

We have a Dakato 2014 and we recently had a problem with our marker lights fuse which kept buzzing and cutting power to all sorts. The fuse was perfect but when we unscrewed the fuse box and lifted it up a little the problem was very clear, it had started to melt the wires together. So maybe worth a look just in case yours maybe starting to do the same.

Hi to the Sutherlands yes it is all the orange marker lights low down on the sides.

 

Hi everyone, I am a new memberand hope that you people can help.  I have just purchased a 2014 fiat autotrail tracker fb and have noticed that the daytime running lights are not working properly on the left hand side.  These led lights fit in the vent space.  It has six led lights, three are working and three are not.  A auto electrician informed me that these are 'after market lights' and as such cannot be replaced.  I am a fussy person and want things to look and go correctly.  Any ideas would be apprecitated, thanks.  Pete

I understand Taranaki RV has full access to the Autotrail factory for Autotrail Frontier and tracker Series parts. They are the Autotrail tribute and I believe the Autotrail roller team New Zealand agents. 

I would go to Jay Car and fit new LED light bulbs. Les

Not being a great handyman Les I listened to the auto electrician who said that they were a sealed unit and would have to replace the whole light.

Hi Pete... if the unit is Narva, Hella or similar mainstream brand the unit should be readily available but otherwise as Les has already said Jaycar or the internet. It is unlikely that you will be able to replace individual LED's as they are usually completely sealed and waterproof. Mike

Hi Pete. Funny, i have just been on the UK Autotrail Facebook page and a member there has exactly the same problem. In your Facebook search engine type Autotrail Friendly Group and hit search. This AT group has over 900 members and is a mine of information. You can spend hours looking at the posts and has given me several ideas for after market mods. Now back to your problem. To have 3 out of 6 LEDs go is very very unusual . If the LEDS where faulty none would work as they would be wired in paralel. I would be looking for loose connections first

The auto elctrician said the power was getting to the lights, I'm wondering if I should take it to another electrician for a second opinion???  While on line, we had a first night away in the van on Saturday, great fun, but I noticed when we used the water pump for shower etc. the lights would flicker throughout the rest of the van.  Appreciate your comments and suggestions, because as I said before, we are newbees at this game.  Pete

Just noticed yesterday one of my running lights are out. Replaced one before I left Uk supplied by Autotrail . We're could j source one in NZ South Island 

Frank

We have noticed on our Tracker that we have 2 cracked rear lenses, (in our case - backing and also 1 x indicator), and 1 now has  condensation in it.(which LED's hate). The problem has been caused we assume through initial overtighening of the lenses back at the factory installation stage? We have tried to find replacement lenses here in NZ, but now think that we must source back in the UK? We have a contact going back over to the UK in late November 2016, and returning in early December 2016, and he can source replacement lenses over there and bring them back to NZ for us. Is anyone else with the same problem interested in this? There also appears to be a wide variation of prices over in the UK, but we will be attempting to source and price the most cost effective replacements.

The left rear Led indicator light on our 2015 Apache 634 has failed with condensation appearing inside the lens (see pic, somehow it loaded upside down?).  These 17 segment LED lights are made by WIPAC, but I cant find any details on the internet.

 

Does anyone know:

1)  How do you remove these lights?

2)  Is the seal repairable?

3)  Where can I source a replacement LED light from?

 

Many thanks,

 

Chris

 

 

I would suggest givingTaranaki RV a ring or going around to see them as they should be able to tell you how to get the light out. If you cannot find the light anywhere then Taranaki RV would be able to source one for you.

 

For the bulb lights I have been told that there is a mark on the lens where you apply pressure with a screwdriver to push the light sideways and it should pop out. Haven't had to try it yet so not sure how easy it is.

 

Rob

HI Chris, There is a clear plastic plug covering a screw on each side. Lever them out with a flat fine bladed screwdriver. The problem is when they are installed by A/T the screws are over tightened thus resolving in fine crackes letting in moisture.

Rob / Les, 

thanks for your help with this; will have a go at removing the lens cover shortly.  I have also been in touch with Dolphin Motorhomes in Hampshire, UK where we purchased our Autotrail 11 1/2 months ago and they are arranging to supply a replacement light under warranty.  This will be shipped to me via YouShop.  Great after sales service from the other side of the world !
So looks like I am all sorted  :-)

 

Thanks,

 

Chris

 

Does anyone have any suggestions on how to restore or paint the exterior plastic mouldings that yellow overtime?

"MOTHERS"

Plastic Polish

available from Repco LTD

Hi Kevin, What did you get sent out - the replacement clips or the whole tv unit? I had a look at the website, and couldn't see where they were selling spare parts, or even the tv units.

Click on the Link

http://www.veba.uk.com/

http://mailto:sales@armourauto.com

As I see they have VEBA Roof Mount Monitors 15.2

for those with broken monitor clips have a look at the the following 

 

http://www.motorhomefun.co.uk/forum/threads/drop-down-monitor-clip-failure.118570/

 

This motorhomer managed to successfully make new clips out of Aluminium.

 

Rob

Hi Rob,

how many clips did you make, my grandson pulled the TV down which broke both clips. Will pay you for a couple if you have any spares.

Regards

WD

 

Hi WD

I only made enough to fix my monitor. I used the broken bits as a pattern to make the new clips and screwed and glued them to the lock bar. The hardest part was getting the bar out and found by carefully bending it it would come out.

 

Rob

Hi Rob, all good, worth a go as they dont seem to have replacements.

WD

If you'd like a quick and dirty fix for the broken clips, we tied a knot at both ends of a length of cord, loosened the front mounting screws, and fitted the cord as shown below:

 

 

We planned to try sourcing, or making, replacement clips, but this has worked so well that we haven't bothtered. Plus it makes a good talking point with our motorhome friends...

 

 

 

Hi all,has anyone had the requirement to look for a security screen door as replacement for the stock Autotrail unit ??

I have seen various caravan makes listed that can have a replacement but have not noticed any motor homes especially autotrail.Thanks

 Fly Screen Door

Many thanks to Geebeealaw for your words and diagram, worked a treat and cost $8.00 for the new cord. Thanks A.M.H no need to pay $850 for new screen door when not needed.

Hi Dusty

 

I don't see the pervious posts and the response from Geebeealaw. we have an issue with broken strings on our screen door as well and would like some help on how to dismantle and repair it.

Cheers 

Under Autotrail fly screen door

 

Alan

thanks alan, yes i posted first enquire under autotrail issues. And with the instructions was easy fix. Got the cord from mitre 10 just took a sample with me and they were very helpfull.

Autotrail Delaware. Can anyone please advise is you have had the cord on the flyscreen on the habitation door break and if so have you had it fixed in NZ and how much it cost? or if you have had to replace the whole thing and once again  cost?

http://autotrailusers.nz/ForumFiles/1012/Fly%20screan%20cords.pdf

 

sorry for it being in hand writing I found this on a UK site may be of some help

 

Alan

Dusty, I have had the cord replaced in my flyscreen door and two of the windows. In fact the repairer has had four goes at repairing the door. The cord kept on breaking. It turns out that there is a little ferrule in each corner that the cord goes through the central hole. They have  corroded internally ( thus took a while to Id) we think from salt air as we are often near the ocean. Hopefully it will be ok this time after the ferrules were renewed. I have used a local (Sydney) domestic concertina type flyscreen maker as none of the RV guys were interested. Door cost A$130 , window A$60. A new door here is A$300 odd. They are certainly are IMHO a weak spot in an otherwise very good motorhome. Hope this helps. Cheers, Gary.

Dusty, I have done my own repairs to the windows which work in the same fashion, although there are two screens in one frame.

It looks formidable but is quite straight forward.  The hand written explanation is good, particularly the diagram.

Give it ago yourself, you can’t really damage it.

John M

 

Alan, thank you for the attachment you posted it has given me the confidence to do the repair the next time it needs doing. Cheers, Gary.

I am experiencing premature wear on my flyscreens. Our AT is a 2015 Tracker FB first registered  Jan 2015 and has travelled 28,000 klms.

The habitation door screen has seriously stretched fabric and recently the cord on the bottom horizontal has broken.

A review of all the others indicates similar issues of stretching fabric. I am keen to identify if other owners have experienced similar issues and I would greatly appreciate any feedback you can offer.

I do plan to claim restitution under warranty but anticipate some resistance based on initial discussions with the Australian importer. I look forward to your feedback. Cheers, Gary C. 

I have not seen the fabric stretch but if the cords break or come loose it will allow the fabric to flop around which would give the appearance of stretching.

However I have had one of the cord guides on a blackout blind break which made the blind all floppy. I managed to reattach the guide using a small screw and then reattach the cords to the blind. 

 

Rob

Thaks Rob for the feedback. The fabric on mine has stretched such that the habitation door screen has lost it's "set". I have discussed this with the importers and they have agreed to replace the affected screens, that is all except the big front roof screen. I hope when the new units are installed they last a little longer than the 12 odd months life of the initial items.cheers, Gary.

We are always carefull to make sure we never shut the door with the screen across

 

Rob

Thought an update on the flyscreen issue might be useful to others with the same problem. After a deal of communication with the AT importer I was refused warranty (long story) , however they were happy to sell me a new habitation screen door for A$520. This forced me to look at my options. I located a domestic flyscreen door company not too far from where I live. End result I removed the door and he replaced the material & cord for A$130. The fabric is slightly heavier so should last longer than OE. Once I work out how to remove the window screens I will have those reconditioned as well.

G'day Geeco

 

My screens are also stretched and lost their set.  Where did you get yours done?  I am on the Sunshine Coast, Qld.

 

Peter

Peter I am based in Sydney so not that much help to you sorry. The company I used is called Artilux Pty Ltd. if you look online for companies that supply & fit the domestic versions of the flyscreen door they should be able to help. I was told it is possible to reset the pleats with heat, I assume by ironing the material.  All my window screens are progressively failing due to the cord freying possibly due to sunlight. At $60 per screen to renew the cord it is not a major expense.If I can help further call me on 0458 592 844. cheers Gary.

Hi Gary, random questions to a fellow Sydneysider..... have you seen any Tributes on your travels?  Do you have A/C in your habitation area and did it come fitted?  Do you have any knowledge of importing privately into NSW?

Thanks
Mark

Sorry I have taken so long to reply however I have only just noticed your post. I have not seen any Tributes in AU on my travels. I understand no company is importing this brand, however there may be a few examples that have been privately imported. I have not imported a MH into AU however I have completed some rough costings and looked at the compliance issues to see how difficult it would be and if the savings justified the warranty risk on the habitation section. I understand Fiat will provide a 2 year warranty on private imports. My AT came with factory fitted AC in the hab area. I understand all AT's imported by the official importer EliteRV are fitted with AC. IMHO this is a necessary option when travelling in very hot summers. Our first trip to Adelaide we experienced temps in low 40's and it saved the day. If I can help further let me know. 

The insect screen door on our 2010 Autotrail has now broken a cord and when pulling across a cord is not retracting. The door has also increasingly becoming out of shape. Can anyone tell me how to remove the frame so that I can attempt to repair? Maybe I need a whole new screen and if so has anyone sourced one? Look forward to responses. Jo Wilson

I look forward to hearing anyone's experiences with this as I have the same thing happening with bedroom ceiling window ( before I pull it to pieces and make it worse ) they are obviously quite a delicate lightweight unit like many of the fittings in these autotrails!

Have sourced a replacement insect screen from Dometic NZ through Chris at Auckland Coach and Motorhomes, (chris@aklmotorhomes.co.nz), 39D Rennie Drive, Airport Oaks. Cost $135 + gst + freight and then the cost for Chris to install it.  Chris was recommended by Dometic and we had to purchase through him as Dometic NZ do not sell direct to the public.  Dometic were very helpful. 

Finally got an appointment at Auckland Coach and Motorhomes to have the replacement screen door installed only to find that Dometic had supplied an insect screen for a window door!  Went back to Dometic and am now required to contact Autotrail for the model number of the door unit installed in our motorhome so that Dometic NZ can order a replacement which will not arrive till sometime next year.  At least from Dometic i learned how to remove the door unit so will attempt to replace the cord myself before ordering a whole new unit.

Couldn't figure out how to repair the insect screen door so when it finally stopped working I purchased a replacement from AMH at a cost of $600.  Easy to install but more of a cream colour than the original grey but only really noticeable by me who fitted it.  These doors must have a short life span because AMH already had some coming into NZ when I made my order.

As you have replaced your insect screen door can you provide some detail as to how you removed the old screen. 

 

thanks

 

Rob

Replacing the screen unit is simple.  Remove the screws from the bottom plate then lift unit up and out as it is sitting on the shafts of screws on each side.  The holes on the side of the unit are like an upside down key hole - circle at the bottom to fit over the screw head then the slot to slide  the unit down the screw shaft.

Click on link

http://www.cmparts.co.nz

 

From: Kevin Dyer

Hello,

Caravan and Motorhome Parts NZ (CM Parts) is able to support your members for parts for their Auto-Trail motorhomes.

We are an approved parts supplier for all of the Trigano Group products including Auto-Trail. We can source items directly from Trigano.

Or phone me direct on 027 517 0300

Thank you.

Kind Regards Kevin 

Hi Folks,

 

We had trouble with the lowering of the Dometic Seitz Sky View vent at the front of our 2014 Delaware Motorhome.  After climbing onto the roof I found that both of the small screws had fallen out of the blocks that connect to the threaded screw spindles. With some “pain” I refitted the screws and managed to get the Sky View lowered so we could travel.   

The winding mechanism must have got damaged during the attempted to lower the vent, and now when the handle is turned something is slipping inside and we get no movement of the spindles.

Has anybody had similar issues?

Has any other member had to buy spares? if yes from whom? 

Any advice would be helpful

Hi

A quick google came up with a number of companies offering to sell and fit the skylights so it shouldn't be too hard to find one that has spares or can point you in the right direction eg. this one in Whakatane

 

https://www.coastalmotorhomes.co.nz/rv-parts-accessories/hatches-windows/dometic/dometic-seitz-sky-view-curved-vent-760x706mm

 

Mike

 

 

 

www.marine-deals.co.nz/seitz-skyview-curved-skylight?___store=default

 

Les

Hi Folks,

 

1. I made an enquiry to Coastal Motor Homes, their response was "Thanks for your enquiry. Unfortunately the windows are not the same"

2. I have made an enquiry with www.marine-deals.co.nz

I will let you know how we get on.

If you have contact with any of your members that have damaged Seitz Skyview 4 skylights in their Auto-Trail Motorhomes please get them to contact us. Some of these Skylights have arrived in NZ by mistake and are available at a very favourable price. Enjoy your week Les Kind regards Kevin sales@cmparts.co.nz Ph 027 5170300 CM Parts

Unfortunately the Dometic Seitz SkyView units that CM parts have are not the same as used in the AutoTrail Delaware.  

After so great advice from Mr. Allan King of Ashburton RV we managed to get the inside surround off and found the failed part.  It is the plastic connection between which the winding crank handle and connects to that drive the hex shaft to the gearbox.

 

I would suggest that Delaware owners open the SkyView, climb onto the roof and ensure that the two small screws that connect the arms to the spindles are tight otherwise you could end of with the same problem we had.  

 

John Zittersteijn from Taranaki RV have been excellent and have spares coming from the UK.

John Zittersteijn and Allan King (Asburton RV) are really customer focused and are highly recommended,

This a Motorhome owner in Australia, I have some interesting information for all Fiat Ducato owners which I would like to pass on, as it will be a great saving for them. Recently we needed some new wiper blades for our 2012 Fiat Ducato motorhome. Firstly I went to all the usual places like Supercheap and the like with no success, so was forced to go to the Fiat dealer (the wipers are different lengths, driver’s side longer). Upon hearing the price of $125 a pair and being told they are very difficult to fit sand o would need to be fitted also by Fiat I picked my jaw up off the desk, went home and  started trawling the internet. Soon I came across a fantastic company called Wipertech (Freecall 1300 778502) in NSW, who arranged next day delivery to us in Qld.
They have every blade from every vehicle at less than half the original cost and a YouTube  video showing you how very easy it is to fit them. There price was $59 for the pair in Australia

Just replaced mine very easy to fit brought from TWL $80nz

 

You can get wipers from SuperCheap Auto (Botany in Auckland) - mine cost $90 - a lttle more expensive, but still cheaper than $125.

Hi

 

wipertech.co.nz are now in the NZ market, $69 freight free on their website.

 

Regards

Mike 

I know it's a bit late but, you can get a replacement set of blades complete with arms ready to clip in from Ali-express for under $40 freight free delivered to your door.

 

better late than never.

JAS

S4 Top Hung and Fixed Window

Click on the Link

 

http://www.leisureshopdirect.com/caravan-spares#ppPDFs[iframes]/4/

 

If you have contact with any of your members that have damaged Seitz Skyview 4 skylights in their Auto-Trail Motorhomes please get them to contact us. Some of these Skylights have arrived in NZ by mistake and are available at a very favourable price.

 

Enjoy your week Les

 

Kind regards

Kevin

 

sales@cmparts.co.nz
Ph 027 5170300

CM Parts

www.cmparts.co.nz

Click on the Link

 

http://New official spares and repairs centre for out of warranty repair to Auto-Trail Audio Visual products such as the 12ele2000 etc. as fitted to the X250 range.

Click on the Download :

 

http://www.atocuk.com/app/download/20333973/window+locks+for+motorhome.pdf

 

 

 

Got a broken interior blind catch? Here are the instructions on how to replace and the supplier contact information. Document is for download only. Supplier details are on the document.

Sending off to Holland for some plastic parts seems a little extreme. Wondering if anyone has ever sourced such items in NZ?

I have just bought a handful of blind catches here in the UK, for £2.10 each, about $4 each. 

 

Most good RV companies here are frequently sending parts to us (collectively thousands of us) in Spain etc and I’m fairly sure they would put a handful of these clips into a Jiffy bag and post by cheapest method to NZ.

 

I bought these from Brownhills in Newark.  They have told me in the past that they will send anything I need into Europe.

 

FYI, Brownhills service dept has 25 inspection pits!  If you google them they have in the past had bad press, but the company was sold a few years back and now it is quite spectacular.  Huge stocks of new Autotrail Swift Adria and Rapido amongst others.  Over 300 vehicles in stock.

they also allow you two nights free accommodation in their paved overnight park with hook-up when you need some service work to your van, we have done that twice.

 

John 

Cottingham

 

I am considering fitting Rexthane industrial wheels to the Witter towbar bracket at the rear of my Delaware to reduce scraping on 'high ground'. Wholesale & Industrial stock these. Can those that have fitted these share what specs of wheels they have successfully used ie diameter, bearings or no bearings, bore size, aluminium or cast iron and width etc.

Also, could this have an effect on COF renewal as it is slightly altering towbar mounting from original specs?

Thanks

Hello

I spoke to a guy yesterday who has a Delaware, and he said there was a company in the UK that made wheels for the Delaware.  Maybe an internet search would locate them?

 

I also visually compared the Delaware to my Comanche and the overhang looks identical.  In nearly three years of full time travel I have only scraped in four locations, and each time the tow ball bracket took the hit, no damaged resulted.

 

Also today I have just seen a 7m Norwegian Burstner fitted with a sophisticated Thule bike carrier, and that carrier had a solid bar across at a low height fitted with solid plastic wheels to prevent the bracket grounding.  Sorry I couldn’t take a photo.

 

On the other hand, in 3 years of travel I have never seen such wheels on any RV vehicle?

 

JohnM

Burgos, Spain

(heading to our winter playgrounds)

I have seen a few Autotrail Motorhomes in NZ before I owned one, with these fitted but didn't note the details!

The towbar bracket will take the brunt of the punishment as it is the lowest point of contact but a pair of industrial wheels fitted to the lowest bolts on the bracket would 'cushion' the contact

If solid wheels they won’t really cushion it?  

 

But if mounted further in from the rear and lower than the tow hook they will hit much earlier and further limit the angle you can climb onto.  I did actually get stuck a few weeks ago in the Alps above Nice, reversed into a steep side road and the bar hit the road leaving me unable to make a three point turn.  The hook dug into the road.   I had to climb further up the mountain trail to find a level spot.  These added wheels would have hit long before the tow hook.  I use the term tow hook to differentiate from the full tow bar assembly we have.

 

Not trying to argue, just a discussion of the limitations you may be adding.  The chassis manufacturer doesn’t think it necessary? But you may have a point?

 

JohnM

I also thought of having them fitted but was informed by the dealer that, if fitted, the towbar would have to be re-engineered to get a COF. Perhaps someone who has fitted them can confirm or otherwise.

Eddie

Two years ago (5 COF's) I fitted Rex 200mm wheels to the bottom bolt holes of the tow bar mounting. They are mounted by way of ag pins.

Did you replace the the bottom bolts holding the towbar on to the brackets or dont youhave a towbar fitted?

We have am imala 734arriving soon and would like to put bars underneath to protec the ear from steep driveways , ferries etc . Preferably , we do not want a towbar , if possible. 

Has anyone done this and if so , where did you get it done ? We live in the Whangaparaoa Peninsula in Auckland. Thanks

Many MH tow bars include a wide nudge bar with the actual tow hook bolted to the bar.  So you could just fit the bar without the hook?

Having said that my “hook” hits the ground before the actual bar.  We have left a few deep gouges on several roads!

JohnM

Thanks that is worth considering.

I have mounted to industrial rubber wheels to the rear bottom

holes of the tow bar frame no damage to the road. Look at the rear of long buses they have drag strips mounted to there chassis.

Thanks for that, the wheels make a lot of sense

I am considering fitting wheels to the towbar brackets at the rear of my Delaware to reduce scraping. Can those that have fitted them share what specs of wheels they have used? Ie diameter, bearings or no bearings, bore size, aluminum or cast iron and width etc etc. Also could this effect COF certification?

Thanks

CONSTRUCTION MODEL
AT NZ Facebook Post:  For those of you who want to know what holds their Autotrail together have a look at this model. 
 

Comments:

 

-  What part of the machine is that?

-  This is a mock up of the floor, wall and roof on show in the Brownhills showroom (Newark) where we got ours from. It shows how the panels are held together.

NUDGE BAR
AT NZ Facebook post:   We are trying to get a front nudge bar for 2018 Comanche but have been told by the fiat agencies they don't have one suitable for this model?

Comment:
  What is difference from 2016 chassis
  The 2016 Fiat is a X250 chassis and the model from 2017 is a X290. Fiat redesigned the front end to give an even longer service interval on this model so highly likely you have been given the correct info and there is no Fiat approved part available.
  The front of Euro vehicles are designed to minimise injuries, including any pedestrians you might run into. Nudge bars are unforgiving. No point having all that safety and then protecting it.

I’m not sure whether they have exactly what you want but try NationwideRV. I’ve seen nudge bars at Silverdale. They also have very smart & easy to install running boards/ front steps

We purchased a low nudge bar as per your photo from east coast Bars Christchurch. They import them from australia. Cost approx 1000.00 excellent product.

I have had autotrail owners recommending that I remove the front grill on my 2015 Imala and attach a mesh to the inside of it to protect the radiator from stones - they had had stones through their radiators.

I have purchased some mesh, but I am having difficulty removing the grill. It seems that the lights have to be removed too and my local panel beater seems to think the whole job could be quite large. The people who recommended this gave the impression it was quite a small and simple task.

Is there anyone who has done this on a 2015 Ducato who could provide me with advice?

 

II used two layers of black plastic gutter guard.  The grill on my 2014 Delaware was only held in by a bead of black silicone like glue.  With a little care and easing the outside frame away the grill came out.  There was no need to remove the whole bumper assembly, lights etc.  removing it makes it far easier to fit the messy rather than trying to do it down from the top.

 

I cut the mesh a little oversized and fastened it to the original wire grill with black plastic cable ties.  Once it was tied in place, trim the mash and the tails of the cable ties.  When replacing the grill I ran a bead of Sikaseal around the grill and fitted it back in.  I also drilled four holes, two in the top and two in the bottom, tomsuit four stainless steel screws.  It is all plastic so it is easy drilling.   Screws and job done.  My brother has had the same mesh in hi Landcruiser grill for five years and is always in the Queensland sun with no degradation of mesh or ties.

 

Peter

 

 

 

 

 

Thanks for your response Peter. I wish my solution for my Imala was as simple as yours. It looks like my grill is part of a larger assembly, but I dont think it is quite as extensive as my panel beater thinks. Hopefully someone who has done it on the same model as mine will be able to give me advice.

Alan

I am in the process of installing 2 roof bars on our 2015 Apache 634.  I have successfully located structural timber (plywood) on the RHS of the van.  This wasnt hard because there appears to be multiple layers in and around the hole for the manual TV antenna.  However on the LHS it is another story.  I have drilled a couple of 1mm pilot holes but so far no luck other than polystyrene beneath the fibreglass. (These I will re-glass later, but I am reluctant to drill more holes !)

Does anyone know of a non invasive way that I can use to successfully locate the structural members in the roof?
I have tried a stud finder, but no luck. . . . 

Hi, Roof make up of thin fibreglass,thin plywood, then 40 mm foam, not very suitable unless you use ss nuts and bolts. I only use Fix It All from Holdfast brought from Mitre 10 $20 a very strong adhesive and sealant for Roof Racks and solar panels, lightly sand gel coat.

Les thanks for that.  

 

In the end I was able to locate one screw on each leg of the front roof bar into the plywood "beam" which is underneath the fibreglass front / rear molding joint.  The rest of the leg was bonded to the fibreglass using Sikaflex-291 (a marine grade sealing adhesive).

 

On the rear bar, one leg was screwed into the Aerial Block plywood mount.  The other leg I bolted through the roof structure using 70mm x 5mm SS cap bolts.  I was able to access the bolts inside the cupboards for bolting up and they are well hidden from view.  
 

All legs were also bonded and sealed with Sikaflex-291 so it is not going anywhere !

 

I was able to source from Autotrail a roof panel arrangement drawing for the Apache 634.  This may be of interest as it is likely other models will be of similar construction.

 

http://autotrailusers.nz/ForumFiles/1010/Roof%20details%20Apache%20634%202015_00120.pdf

Hi Chris, Sounds good, as in past I have use adhesive. Last van Comanche I mounted s/s plates on the side to hold a 35 kg porta bote, on the inside I use 5 ply wood square to spread the pressure of the bolts with s/s sleave on the bolts between the 5 ply inside to s/s outside New Delaware has aluminium box down the roof rails which was great for mounting the porta bote along side

Just replaced my one battery for two 120w. Now I have the problem of the power turning it self off. Do I need to have the Sargent panel look at please?

Can't explain the turning off bit, but for sure you need to tell the Sargent system that it's now looking after 240AH of battery. You can configure that in the settings.

How are the batteries setup ? Are they in parallel or using two Sargent less to to fittings supplied . 

I used the 2 leads on our last Apache but had trouble and found wiring the batteries in parallel fixed the problems 

Using the two sets of leads is “in parallel”.

 

Normal battery practice is to parallel at the batteries, but for some reason Sargent have designed the wiring system with separate leads, ie four wires, for each battery to the circuit board plug.  Two red and two black.  They are paralleled at the circuit board.

 

I had to replace my Comanche battery wiring because of a short circuit in the void behind the drivers seat.  I detailed this in another thread about a year ago.

 

John M

Vila Joiosa 

 

Hi Kevin & Joy

 

As Above Paralled at the PSU ( Brown Positive )  Blue ( Negative )

 

Sargent System ?  is it a PSU.  EC155 Recall by Autotrail

 

Votronic Monitor fitted, if so could be a conflict between Sargent System and Votronic System causing the switching relay to turn off

 

Les

 

 

I have two electronics problems.

Was watching ABs on Sunday morning on front TV in my 2015 Comanche, when suddenly after about 10 mins, picture lost and then screen says no signal. Turned on TV in rear to see if that working, in a bit of a panic by now, and front TV immediately got picture and sound again. Tested by turning rear TV off at half time, and lost signal to front TV again, turned on again and front tV all good again.

Can anyone point me in the direction of what causing this problem, and how to fix please.

 

Second problem is electronic readings from gauges above door. We have two solars - 220 watts on roof, and two lead acid batteries - 210 amps so plenty of grunt for normal use.

The battery level of charge is not responding correctly to show level of charge after either heavy inverter use, or night time TV use.

On Sunday, not on mains power,  I charged two E-bike batteries with inverter. I have a blue tooth battery management device connected direct to my batteries, and after an hour and 20, the bike batteries fully charged and house batteries showing about 85% charged, or 15% down, on blue tooth device. This felt about right.

However the gauge above the door still showing house battery at 99% charged, so it is not registering accurately at all. I have reset it by holding middle button on right hand side down to hear first beep, then releasing to get 2 beeps telling me reset is done. This did not alleviate the problem

Has anyone had either of these problems and if so can you help please.

Thanks

John, re your issue with Sargent SOC reading not matching the real world, it sounds as if you're not charging and/or discharging your batteries solely via the Sargent unit. It can only track and measure that current which passes through it. With 220W watt solar at least some if not all solar charge is going via a separate solar controller. Were you charging the bike batteries from within the van, or straight off the batteries?

Hi John, When you reset your panel hope you did it at night when no current movement. Les

Hi john , I’ve been thinking your issue as follows;

A) inverter is direct connected to leasure battery

B) and as per above comment, solar is via separate controler direct to battery ( Sargent system won’t handle 200w)

C) Tv current , Lights etc will be via Sargent system.

Hence

1) as your only charge current on the day is solar , no charging current flows via Sargent system

2) as the inverter is direct feed off battery this reasonably high current (bike battery charger) is not via Sargent system. Ie most load current does not flow via Sargent system.

Therefor

3) the Voltage Reading on the Sargent will still be correct 

4) however the Capacity Reading will be incorrect as it is based on - preinput AH capacity ,less or plus the difference of input and output currents over time period that are flowing via the Sargent system - ( at this time this was only the tv (and maybe lights ?) .ie a small current draw off for Sargent to monitor.

5) on the other hand your Bluetooth battery monitor has a shunt in the battery line and measures all input and output currents hence giving an accurate capacity % (approxamate) .

 

PS: I am guessing on how the Sargent system calculates capacity % but this sounds reasonable 🤭

Happy to discussover a wine or two. 😄😄

John,

Re your front TV, it sounds like your front skybox is not powering up the LNB on the dsih. we had tge same with our front TV in our Delaware, i checked and there was not voltage from the RSE skybox, So the TV in the bedrrom was powering the LNB. replaced front box and all is good.

 

Thanks to all for above replies.

From a mere accountants perspective, I think what you are telling me is that there will always be a difference because of the solar power being greater than what the Sagjent can handle. That being the case, I probably do not need to worry about the difference and can rely on the reading off the bluetooth battery monitor.

If this is correct then I can live with that.

Thanks Martin, Les and Roland.

Could have a discussion over a glass of wine, anytime, Roland, perhaps we might even get to talk about electrics!!

 

Re TV problem, thanks RSUP for your comment. Both of the TVs incorporate slots for the My Sky card - no separate sky box.  So does this mean the front TV has a problem. If so it is about 2 year old RSE TV. They may or maynot be interested in my problem, plus ofcourse they are in AKL.

Is back to RSE the only option?

 

From Facebook

Warning everyone with a Autotrail from late 2007 who has a EM50 intelligent interface located under the floor behind drivers seat this is what happened to ours after half an hour of driving. We have had intermittent problems with our electric step and the fridge fuse blowing since we first bought the MH 2 years ago. It has been looked into with no fault found. We recently had a new fridge fitted and after phoning Sargent found out fridges fitted since late 2007/2008 need a 20 amp fuse as they draw more current. So even the original fridge needed a larger fuse but thetford didn't inform suppliers and only admitted to Sargent after others had this problem. Also think the unit had become faulty because of the extra current over time. This could have caused a fire and we were very lucky.

Ours is the Cheyenne 660 don't know if it affects other makes but please get it checked out specially if having step problems or fuses blowing

Has anyone experienced the red light comfort Matic gearbox failure light coming on? My vehicle has only done 500 km three days of driving! Can't get hold of dealer- thinking maybe as the oil level light is also changing - that the warning light is a light fault so not a problem.

Hi, look in forum under fiat issues comfort-matic ......Les

Wow, I hope that never happens to us. 

The biggest danger here is that people will worry or panic about things which are extremely unlikely to affect them (I know, I've met one or two). From the dialogue you can deduce that the fault was probably induced by incorrect battery connection (i.e. user error). For most this will never happen,so you shouldn't lose any sleep over it!

I find it hard hard to belive thst a reverse polarity issue would have caused this,. Most modern electronics these days have blocking diodes to prevent damage from this I will requesting the electronic awing for the EC500 unit from Sargent who have provided without question previous tech data. I will keep you updated.

I would also be interested in seeing a copy of the circuit but would be surprised if there is a diode in series with the battery. A silicon diode has a voltage drop of 0.6 volts and a shottky diode has a voltage drop of 0.2 volts. When charging and discharging 12 volt batteries this is a significant loss of voltage. Also if you insert a diode in series with the battery the output voltage of the in vehicle AC battery charger and solar controllers would all need to be increased to compensate for the voltage lost across the diode so that the batteries are charged correctly. 

Rob

Hi, I also would be very interested in seeing a schematic diagram of the workings with the PCB as it has had burnout on 230v ac charging..Les

Note the burnout is not 230 volt related.  

The 230 volts goes to the charger and then as 12 volts to the EC500.  The charger is a separate device in the rear right of the overhead cabinet (on my Comanche). 

The original email does not mention whether the charger has been damaged?

JohnM

Hi John,

I would agree that the damage is on the ELV (12VDC) side not the LV (230VAC) side. Let's see what I can find out, Sargent are an excellent company and their products are generally top class.

Hi, 

A/T owners have had a Faulty Sargent EM40 units giving a lot of Electronic Grief with the Sargent PSU.

Our units are as pictured.

 

Our new A/T 2017 unit with solder splaters                  Replacement Unit

                  Left

Les

UPDATE

An update on the burn out in the Sargent Controller in the UK.  There has been a lot of discussion with no one taking responsibility for a warranty claim.   Autotrail, Sargent and the dealer said that as no cause had been found it wasn’t a warranty issue.  The MH was 20 months old and the owner had had correct servicing and no modifications.  He made a claim on his insurance and bingo.
November 8:  “Vehicle examined today by Caravan Club Insurance assessor . He has stated that simply the unit is at fault and gone into meltdown . There is no external factors causing this. Insurance are likely not dealing as to him it should be done under warranty. He had also told this to Dealer who are reproaching Autotrail.”  (His statement is a bit jumbled)
November 14:  “Caravan Club Insurance have stepped in. They have said the vehicle is a write off and have paid me. I understand Axa are to take recovery action against Dealer . Another own goal by Autotrail.  Game over.”

Just to let people know this has been uprated on 2018 models to 200w (cabling also)... very kind of autotrail to continue to fit a 100w panel, however!

 

 

Hi Elliot,

Are they still using the Sargent EC500 unit?

 

Hi

I am told they are moving to EC700 as this takes 200w including the cabling etc

as I say they retain the 100w panel so it means a cost swap out to a larger spec panel.

 

/2014 Further Technical Information is available in the product assistance section of our web-site, www.sargentshop.co.uk 
Off Load Voltage % Charge 12.8 100% 12.5 80% 12.1 50% 11.5 10%
EC480 Control Panel - Batt Amps (A) and Capacity % (AH) The EC480 (or EC300) control panel, connected to the EC500 PSU has the ability to measure and display the current (A) going into or out of the active (Selected) battery. Positive Current (+) indicates charging of the battery whilst Negative Current (-) indicates discharging of the battery.  The EC480 control panel also displays the approximate remaining capacity of the leisure battery (AH). As the battery is charged this gauge will increase and as the battery is discharged it will reduce. This is a useful indication of useable battery power, However is only a guide and you should always take note of the actual battery voltage (See table opposite) 
Active Battery Screen 
 
EC480 Control Panel 
Capacity % (Amp Hours) – EC480 Control Panel ONLY 
The AH reading is not a reading or measurement from the battery, It is purely a calculation based on battery size, the charging current into the battery and the current drawn from the battery and as such is reliant upon a correctly calibrated ammeter and the correct sized battery being programmed into the control panel (See Below). 
This reading will also be inaccurate if the leisure battery has been removed from the van and charged independently, or an additional\larger battery fitted. In this case a programming option is available to reset the AH Start Point. To check\change the programming options follow the below instructions: 
1) Turn off the 12V Power To the Van 2) Scroll to the manufacturer logo screen (E.g. Autotrail) 3) Press and Hold the Up and Down Scroll arrows to enter the programming mode 4) Use the scroll keys navigate the menus a) Battery Size (Set to Appropriate Size) b) AH Start Point (Set To Estimated Battery Capacity, I.e. 100% when fully charged) 5) Use the Select (<) key to adjust the settings 6) Scroll to "Exit Advanced" and Use the Select key to exit. 
Calibration of the Ammeter – EC480\EC300 Control Panels The ammeter is within the EC500 PSU and requires calibration to the EC480 (Or EC300) control panel at initial install. Following this initial calibration you may need to re-calibrate if the reading is inaccurate, one cause of an inaccuracy could be due to a replacement control panel being installed. To re-calibrate follow the below instructions: 
1) Turn off the 12V Power to the van 2) Turn off the Battery Charger 3) Where possible solar panels should be covered 4) Scroll to the active battery screen (Battery Current Screen on EC300) 5) Press and hold the select button (<) to start the calibration process. 6) Note the "A" \ "Batt Amps" Reading reset to 0 7) Once calibrated you should see a more accurate display of the current.  

 

I'm thinking of buying a dashcam to record our trips and also record any incidents.

Does anyone have any ideas on what to buy?

I would like to be able to record to removeable memory that can be played back on a smart tv.

Dash cams are a must. Try and get one with built in GPS recording. Sharon said I like wasting money until driving from Blenhiem to murchison when a truck and trailer overtook us and swiped off the rh mirror. The Murchison cop looked at the footage and told me the owner. They wouldn't pay until I sent them a clip or the accident. They paid the $800+ bill. Will worth the $30 off trademe. Now have a cam in every vechicle we own. But don't try to show police footage of dangerous driving the aren't interested.

I've been using a Blackvue dashcam, which takes excellent full HD1080p 30fps video, and includes a gps so that you can display where you are as the video is playing back. The base model costs $230, which is most likely all you'll need. You can see more at www.blackvue.co.nz. They'll probably have a stand at the Covi show.

I attach mine to the motorhome windscreen using bluetack rather than the supplied adhesive pads - makes it much easier to remove, or transfer to you car should you want to. 

If you're planning to record trips for later replay, you might want to do something about the dashboard reflections, which can be quite distracting. I've got some black toweling that I spread over the top of the dash if I'm recording something special. Also, the higher up the windscreen you mount the dashcam, the more reflections it picks up.

We use a DDPAI M6PLUS and a GITUP GIT2 (lookalike for a GoPro Hero). Both good. M6PLUS allows permanent wiring for power and with a spare base so you can transfer it to your car by just pulling off the magnetic base and re-sticking it in the other vehicle.  Can't recommend having one too highly - we had our wing mirror smacked by an overtaking truck - fortunately in our case no actual damage done (apart from having to shampoo the driver's seat afterwards!). We made up a magnetic mount for the GIT2 so we can have on the dashboard but remove/replace easily when parked up. Apart from the crash recording aspect, it's great to be able to review your travels afterwards.

Is anyone having trouble with the main power switching off on the EC 480 panel above the door? When we are plugged into mains and the solar panel is charging our power is intermittantly turning off (most anoying when on the toilet and one nees water!) the switching off only happens when the mains charger is on and the solar is working - ie never switches off at night. Sometimes the power stays on for several hours, sometimes only for a minute and its off again.  I have reset the system by closing down the main EC500 panel but this makes no difference.

I have seen a similiar problem with the EC51/155 Control Panel and it was due to over voltage. I asked Sargent for help and they confirmed my suspicion of over voltage. Changing a setting in the solar regulator fixed the problem.

 

My guess is that with the solar and charger working together your system is exceeding a voltage threshold in the panel and shutting down.

 

I would suggest you send your query to Sargent and see what they come back with. I would be interested in hearing there answer.

 

Rob

Thank you for your advice. I'll email Sargent as you suggest. 

Sargent has replied promptly with this advice:

 

It seems like the system is cutting off due to the voltage spiking above 15.5v. this is possible if the sun is particularly strong, however, it would be an indication that the Solar regulator may need replacing. As you may guess from the name, the regulator’s job is to keep the voltage to a steady controlled level. The PSu is programmed to shut down as soon as the voltage gets too high as a self-protection method.

 

Kind Regards

Tim Sanderson

Technical Specialist

Our new Comanche is drawing between 4.8 and 5.4 amps while at rest with noting obvious going. We have been assured by Auckland Motor homes that this is perfectly natural because of clock and computor in fridge still running. Can any body give us their comments as to weather this is acceptable. Bernie

Have  alook a few lines down from here 

calibrating ec300 control panel

simple as!!!

I noticed there seemed to be current (amps) coming into the house batteries from nowhere.  At night when there was no solar and with no other charging system working (ie no mains, engine not running) there was still one amp showing on the panel above the door. I emailed Sargeant Electrical Services from their web site and asked if there could be something coming from the engine battery.  "No" was the prompt reply along with advice to callibrate the panel.

The procedure is simple:

First, ensure the charger is switched off, and the control panel power button is off.  Next scroll to battery current. Then to calliobrate the reading, press and hold the middle arrow button.  After a few seconds the screen will tell you that it's callibrating, then the screen will give a zero reading.

Turn the power button back on.

At rallies and on this forum there have been questions asked about the electrics in our vans. Most vans have a Sargeant EC500 Power Control System and on the Sargeant web site there is a download for the manual. Either Google 'Sargeant EC500 Power Control System" or use this link: 
http://sargentshop.co.uk/Technical-Data/Self-Help/EC500-Power-Control-System
There's a wealth of information in the manual. 

Has anyone come up with a fix for the rattling blinds on the drivers & passengers doors. If I hold my hand on them they stop rattling, there must be a fix for this. I love the new vehicle, this and the fact that it is hard to read the speedo, which I fixed by putting in a HEADs Up, which now works well.Two faults that should not be in such a high class vehicle. Cheers Graham Collis

 

I used spots of clear silicon sealer around the plastic frame to door which has worked so far.  Annoying isn't it. Regards IanG

After trying various things I inserted the smallest size T section glazing strip between the frame and the door. It is hardly noticeable and has worked well. 0.5 metre for each door

cheers Neil

Used a very small self taping screw to fix inner frame to inside door armrest, worked well on both doors.

Neil, thank you for your suggestion, any chance you could post a closeup photo of the T section glazing strip also photo of it installed please.  If not, could you possibly provide measurements of it before I head out to purchase, thanks so much

Wallace, may also try the screw into the armrest, (could you possible post a photo) the blinds are very noisy, thanks so much

T section glazing rubber is 4mm x 10mm. The front end has been pulled out for the photo. It pushes down into the gap at bottom RHS of the tape measure. Length is 900 mm and it runs along the bottom of the frame and high up the rear edge

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

SHELVING WARDROBE

 

AT NZ Facebook post:  From a fairly useless space to a very functional space for us. We don't do hanging clothes so shelves it is. Had them professionally made and fitted. Very happy. And the retaining box for our large glass and collapsible dish drainer and tray.

Comments:

I did that with my hanging space but put a small upstand edge on front of shelves to prevent sliding. Made a very useful kitchen cupboard.

             

                

SMALL MOTOR BIKE RACK

AT NZ Facebook post:  I have just bought an Autotrail Imala 715 and I am interested to know if anyone has information about fitting a rack to the back for carrying a small motorbike

Comment:

* Same here for an Autotrail FB. Have looked at MoTow carriers but have been told it would be too heavy for the tow bar weight load.

Think I will get engineer to design bracket off chassis

 

RESIDUE FROM CARPET PLASTIC

AT NZ Facebook post:  We have taken off the plastic on our carpets and it has left a sticky residue. Any ideas how to get rid of it.

Comment:

* When we took ours off we had the same problem I washed them several times but nothing removed it so we had new carpet mats made in a darker colour.... as good as new very happy with them.
* Just a note to others who leave the plastic on their carpets, in a word... don't!! I hope you find a solution for this. I would try eucalyptus oil but then it might be just too hard for such an area.
* What about the stuff you can get for getting residue from sticky labels off. Or is that an oil? Professional carpet clean?
Had a professional clean, still sticky.

 

KITCHEN SERVERY BAR
AT NZ Facebook Post:    I wish we could say it was our idea. But no, we spotted this in another Autotrail while we were down south. Loved the idea and have copied it, has made a huge difference to our kitchen area.  [Photos #1 & 2]
Comments:
-  Where did yKITCHEN SERVERY BAR
AT NZ Facebook Post:    I wish we could say it was our idea. But no, we spotted this in another Autotrail while we were down south. Loved the idea and have copied it, has made a huge difference to our kitchen area.  [Photos #1 & 2]
Comments: 
-  Where did you source the matching materials 
-  98% match but you wouldn't notice unless you looked hard. We took the Perspex off and drew a template and had it made at local kitchen manufacturer. Brought it home and installed it. Unbelievable the difference it has made
ou source the matching materials 
-  98% match but you wouldn't notice unless you looked hard. We took the Perspex off and drew a template and had it made at local kitchen manufacturer. Brought it home and installed it. Unbelievable the difference it has made

 

Fantastic idea, design, and workmanship, you could use the original lighting circuit to drive a row of LEDs along the under edge on one or both sides of the upstand.

JohnM

Warsaw

IMALA PULLOUT PANTRY

AT NZ Facebook post:  In our Imala 730, I discovered that you can get a pull out pantry from mitre10. With a couple of minor tweaks converts the 2 deep cupboards under the sink bench into a very user friendly pull out unit. I kept the drawer fronts and catches un altered. It’s called “300mm undersink double large pull out wire basket by Hafele.  Available from mitre 10 Mega.
Comment:
* We love the idea. But on visiting mitre 10 thought the unit would be too wide for our cupboards which are only 235mm.
* Yes it does fit at 235mm. The only thing I had to tweak was in the Imala 730 the water pump is at the back and it slightly fouled the bottom wire shelf, all I did was bend the legs on the shelf back so that shelf was up against the front, really easy.
* The left side I took out complete, the left side I cut just short of the hole for the drain from the sink. I used a renovator tool for this. But you could remove the whole shelf. The sink drain can be pulled out from the floor, just need a long hand and a mirror to understand the fitting that goes through the floor. if you would like some more pictures of what I have done, more than happy.
* Did you have to move the water pump so the bottom basket could fit?
* No didn’t touch the water pump, just put a small bit of thin front runner to act as cushion. But that’s the basket that needs the legs bent back at the top to push the basket forward up against the cupboard front, that was enough for it to fit. You can see this in the picture attached. To get the drawer fronts on in the correct alignment I put double sided tape on the brackets that attach the drawer fronts and then put the attaching screws through the lot leaving the tape in place. This ensures correct alignment of the drawer fronts. I left the handles catch’s and latch intact. Hope this all makes sense.
Thank you so much for all your help and advice. Our baskets are now installed. It makes such a difference to the use of the cupboards

Before hitting the road, I always carry out a 'walk around' to make sure that everything is closed, stored, stowed, lowered etc so that our motorhome is serviceable and ready to go (I'm sure everybody does this).  As part of checking that the lockers are closed, I have made a small modification so that a quick visual check confirms their status as not all locks are oriented the same way, rather than pushing each button for confirmation.  I put a small dot of red paint at each side of and in line with the keyhole to show the  locked position (refer to the photos) - simple but effective.

 

Locked

 

Unlocked

SPLASH BACK
AT NZ Facebook Post:    I have fitted a splash back above toilet hand basin in our Tribute 715. I made up a pattern and the got it cut to size from polycarbonate at Classique Plastics Napier.  [Photos #1 & 2]

Comments:

 
-  Snap, did mine last year, didn't like the thought of water getting down the back [Photo #3]
-  When I bought my Delaware I inherited a formica sample over the join which no doubt lifted from water.  I replaced it with a tile, went to a tile shop and the guy cut it for me, much happier! [Photo #4 & 5]

 

RUBBISH BIN
AT NZ Facebook Post:    Have had our Auto trail Comanche for a month now and the rubbish bin on the door is driving us crazy! It falls off constantly, even when we try to shut door carefully.... any suggestions on how to keep it in place?

Comments:

 
-  We had trouble with ours and the pins at the bottom had broken.

-  The pins aren't broken just keep coming out!

 
-  The pins have a tooth to lock them in place so have a check that they are locked in. (see photo) When inserting pin it has to be correctly rotated. If the pins are still loose you can sleeve them with heat shrink tubing.

 

The AT pin design is rubbish (no pun intended).  Mine fell out on day 1 from new.  I cut a piece of 1/4 inch (6.3mm ish) aluminium tube (or rod - whatever you have) and cut it oversize for the width of the bin - just over 300mm.  I cut the tube in half end placed the pieces in the respective L & R holes.  The rods overlapped in the middle so I marked and cut them so the rods now met snuggly in the middle.  In version one I taped them together with masking tape which looked a bit rough. V2 consists of a piece of old TV aerial which just happened to be a tight fit over the rods.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Rubbish Bin

Hi We have a 2014 Tribute. I would like to hang a rubbish bin on the habitation door door but am not sure if the door is strong enough to hold it there. Can anyone help me with this please.

Our 2016 Imala came with a bin attached to the door - it states Max 3kg on it . Your door should easily cope with that weight.

SEALING A ROOF PENETRATION 
AT NZ Facebook Post:    We need to seal around a panel on the roof where the TV dish and solar panel wiring goes into the van.

What type of sealer to use or what not to use.

 

 Comments:

-  Do not use roof a gutter sealant.  Look for a construction silicone adhesive like what is used in coolstores. It is not cheap but it is better than some cheaper sealants.

Another is Silastic 632 which can be obtained in a toothpaste like container but is again not cheap - I am a sparkie and I use this type of sealant often to protect ingress of water into electrical fittings. Also ask what boaties use.

 

ENTRY RAILS
AT NZ Facebook Post:    Had new handrails installed where you get in van done by Manawatu Resto in Feilding. Well Tim and Paul did a great job! Highly recommend them.

 

Comments:

 
-  I would like more hand rails at the entry to our Autotrail Scout after a trip/fall this year - how did you attach them- where did you put them? - photos?

-  Looks great .. going down the stairs is my problem. Fractured my ankle and still not confident to go down ‘frontwards’. In Autotrail Scout we have a have pot cupboard where your seat is so don’t have a place to fix handle on that side. I am always looking for something to steady myself. Other side is a big improvement so will definitely look at that. Many thanks for sharing

 

LEISURE BATTERY LOCATION
AT NZ Facebook Post:    We have just purchased a 2015/2016 tracker RB. Can anyone shed some light on where we would find the leisure battery? Have hunted high & low for it but no joy so far.

 

Comments:

-  Try behind the driver’s seat in the locker it will have a black cover over it.

-  Next question - has anyone added a 2nd battery and if so, where did you put it?

-  If you are going to connect another 12volt battery in parallel to increase capacity, it is important that although you connect positive to positive and negative to negative terminals, the wires that are taking the power in and out of the batteries should be connected to one battery for the positive and the other battery for the negative. Also, both batteries should be the same capacity and preferably the same brand and age.

-  You can put a 2nd battery in the same under seat locker. You need to secure battery with straps so that it can’t move. It is connected in parallel with the original battery and has to have a separate inline fuse in the positive cable.

 

IMALA PANTRY CONVERSION

AT NZ Facebook Post:    I converted a kitchen cupboard to a very practical pull out pantry in our Imala.
 

 

Comments:

 
-  Who did the cupboard conversion did you do it yourself, looks a great job.
-  A DIY job with offcuts from a joinery factory and 4 draw runners.
-  Great idea, in the original joinery was there a centre fixed shelf, did you remove this?
-  Yes, I had to remove the shelf but the wood was handy for a small matching bedside shelf

 

That also looks good. RV Mega now have a pull out pantry with 2 X 200 wide baskets for $129.00. I have fitted to the rhs under bench cupboard and makes the cupboard far more accessible. We have an Imala 730.

A bit fiddly but now know the easier way to install. Will add photo soon.

 

BED GAS STRUTS

AT NZ Facebook Post:    I have a Dakota Motorhome, the bed is gas lifted it stays up ok with no bedding on but when the bed is made up I have a heck of a job to hold it up anyone else have this.

 

Comments: 

-  We have same problem you can get extra gas put in them or heavier struts but we just use a stick to hold it up hey it works and we figure we don't really get in there much anyway.
-  a stick looks the way to go.
-  We use a broom

 

FREEZER SMELL

AT NZ Facebook Post:    Disaster accidentally left food in freezer after we got back home now have a terrible smell in motorhome can anybody give me a way to get rid of smell other than new fridge which I am feeling it will be the solution

 

 Comments:

-  Dehumidifier, White vinegar, Leave a bag of charcoals inside, Baking soda, Try Apple cider vinegar,

 
-  Napisan should work. Dissolve in water and wipe freezer out. Then pour as much as you can in bottom of freezer and leave for 24 hours. Worked on friends freezer which was left full of bait and power switched off.

-  Put a dish of baking Soda in there and leave open. Also wash freezer out with a strong solution of vanilla and water.
-  We had that after a week away freezer was accidently turned off at home. Got home went in the garage and thought a dead rat was in there. We scrubbed the freezer out with baking soda and hot water then wiped it all down with vanilla essence leave the door open for a while. No smell now. We always leave our fridge and freezer in our van open a bit until next time.

-  I strongly recommend that you do not use napisan or any other chemical including cleaning wipes. I assume the fridge liner is plastic (can’t check as I’m not near the MH) Plastics can be attacked by chemicals and you could be left with shrinkage cracking which then allows moisture into the insulation. Follow the good advice given in previous comment. (I used to by a Technical Advisor at F&P)

-  I washed out and tipped half bottle of baking soda in cleaned out then tipped in vinegar on paper towel. Helped a bit but still not good. So washed out with Janola tablets a lot better so going away this weekend so will fill with newspaper and charcoal and see what that does if not better will try insurance.

-  Old Second Hand Merchants trick was Vanilla essence left in a fridge to remove smell, Works a treat.
-  Cut an onion and leave in for a time. Will absorb the smell.
-  I use my used dry coffee grinds.  They work for my house fridge. I just leave them in until I have another lot.
-  We used to use peeled chopped up onions in a bucket of water to absorb the smell of new paint in the house.  Worked exceptionally well, The onions absorbed the smell totally

 

NEW DELAWARE CUTLERY DRAW
AT NZ Facebook post:   Installing a new cutlery draw in the Delaware enabled removal of original tray taking up the whole shelf below the sink. Opening the big curved door for a teaspoon always seemed like an elephant getting a toothpick

 

Comments:

 

- The cutlery tray is a Joseph Joseph tray from Briscoe's.  The tray is attached to 450mm sliders with double sided tape. The left had slider rail is mounted on blocks, the front  22mm thick and 36mm at the rear.  The two blocks are different sizes because the front one is thinner because of the panel holding the door hinge. Drill holes through blocks for screwing them to the wall before installing. It is tight to work in there so use double sided tape to place block in position before screwing. 
-  The cutlery tray in curved cupboard has been removed creating lots of space for pots & cleaning stuff.   The cooking utensils are now on first shelf in the small cupboard under the new cutlery slider.

 

 

 

 

STICKY ROOF VENT
AT NZ Facebook post:   On our 2016 Apache the rear roof vent (quite large) with wind up handle will not rise without us having to aid the rise with our hand pushing up on the vent. Normal? Or does it require attention?

 

Comments:

 

-  Had the same problem but with front vent/sunroof. Eventually it wouldn't wind and unfortunately it was up and wouldn't come down. Found out the spline on the winder was stripped so maybe get it looked at now. Sometimes the rubber just forms like a suction. 
-  The windup skylights form a suction seal on the rubber when closed. Use your hand to apply a little assistance force as you start winding and it will release. Winding without assistance stresses the spindle. A tip to make sure you start winding in the right direction is to put an arrow label on base of handle.

OVEN TEMPERATURE
AT NZ Facebook post:  First time using the oven and now the question of how can you tell if it’s heated up to the right temperature?  I’m looking for around 180deg for Feijoa pudding

 

Comments:

 

-  You can get an Oven Thermometer which goes in the Oven and you read it through the Glass Window. 
-  180 I would do at about gas Mark 6. Photo #1
-  I find I need to do everything on pretty much full heat.
-  Increasing to 6 instead of 4 was a help, but it took nearly an hour instead of 40 to 50 minutes also found putting pudding low in oven was better
-  Well the proof was in the pudding the feijoa/Apple pudding was very good just took longer then planned.
-  I make scones and it always takes longer.

WINDOW SCRATCHES
AT NZ Facebook Post

 

What do you use to clean windows. Can you get scratches off

 
 Comments:

-  Yes you can use plastic headlight polisher available from any auto supply shop

-  I use Fenwick Windowize scratch remover, however I did buy it in the UK, maybe available on ebay.

 

- Brasso is perfect for removing scratches...easy

 

- We have same problem and our research has bought up people using;- vuplex, Novus 123, Brasso (also good on sun glasses), toothpaste, Fag ashe mixed with water!, Greygate's but the most popular (& used by professional valet) seems to be Fenwicks Windowize.

 

This is available from Fenwicks in Palmerston North (can buy on Facebook) and also Taranaki RV & UK Caravans in Christchurch. A couple of useful links:how-to-repair-motorhome-window-scratches https://www.practicalmotorhome.com/.../31899-how-to... and www.fenwickscaravanandmotorhome.co.nz/products.cfm   
www.practicalmotorhome.com How to repair motorhome window scratches | Advice | 

 

Click on link

 

https://www.fenwickscaravanandmotorhome.co.nz/products

 

Hi  all

I just recently purchased a pre-loved immaculate Delaware it's manufactured Oct 2014...

 

I have one burning question:

How do I turn the the lights off above the two lounge seat windows, (not the ceiling light, the ones immediately above the seats and windows windows)?

 

Activating the main lights button above the door, (or the main console in cupboard) turns both these lights on, but I can not find a switch anywhere to turn them interdependently off, short of deactivating all lights with the main light control switch...

 

Surely, I'm just not finding the switch or missing something, and there is a way of turning these off without deactivating all lights... or is there the possibility that there is some sort of weird fault?

Thanking you in advance and looking forward to anyone's help with (newbie) question. Cheers

Assume you refer to the LED strip lights?

On the panel above the door

The lower row of touch buttons

The left button is for the outdoor lights

The second button is the main lounge lights.

From memory........or is it the third?

I use it daily too....

JohnM

Hi, The remote control should dim and turn the lights off. I fit a small switch underneath by on end to each led strip light,Cut the red positive wire.

Thanks John! ... Problem solved! I knew it was just somehting simple I was missing... 'couldn't see the forest for the trees' (lol)

Thanks too Les! ... I was thinking the exact same thing about installing small switches... still might install one to the LHS side one as I have already added a new 28" TV to the LHS bulkhead just behind the passenger seat and one of the lights in question is directly above the new TV and there's a bit of glare on the screen from it. 

 

As for the control panel remote; My remote doesn't seem to do much, it does makes the little blue LED flash on the panel but that is about it (lol), then again, I only picked up the MoHo on Friday afteroon so haven't had a whole lot of time to sort out the 'ins & outs' of everything in it...

 

On the finer details topic; the Auto-Trail user guide covers alot points, but it is a bit lacking on the finer details ... have a new found appreciate of the inch think manauls you get with a new car (i.e. they assume the reader is a dummy and needs to have everything explained; "the door handle is on the door, pull the door handle to open the door" LOL)

 

Anyway, again thanks to you both, appreciate the prompt respnse(s)... Will do my best to contribute here too.
Cheers, Matt.
 

TRIP METER
AT NZ Facebook post:  Does anyone know what this house then arrow then car followed by A mean? Can't find anything in the manual!. It has 3946km under it.
Comment:
u  That is your A Trip meter, shows the km done since you set when you dropped your wife off. You now have to go back 3946km to get her. Set Trip B so you know when you're nearly there. 
u  Ahh thanks.....she might be getting angry😠      Not sure why it suddenly appeared but I will look up trip meter in my manual.

 

THULE AWNING STUCK OUT
AT NZ Facebook Post:   We have opened our Thule Omnistor 6200 for first time wound it right out instead of just one metre before putting legs down, now can’t get it to go back, any advice would be appreciated thanks

Comments:

 

-  Have you tried raising it up with the two legs then slowly wind it back in moving the legs back as you go to maintain its height as you wind ??
-  Thank you,  along with giving bar hinges a push inwards finally worked

The wooden shelf stops in the cupboard under the bench in my Tribute are made of 'junk' particle board and broke at the corner.  We use 'Systema' 14L bins in the cupboards and these were probably the primary cause of the damage.  The wooden shelf stops which broke were of a right angle profile, so I decided to remove the wooden shelf stops (2 screws and about 3 very fine pins) and replace them with 25mm 'Metal Mate Aluminium Equal Angle' right angle extrusion (Bunnings).  The screw holes were drilled so that they matched up with the old holes.  An additional screw was used midpoint for extra strength.  To make it look original, I cut off the leading edge off the old broken piece with a Stanley knife and glued the piece of wood on the leading edge of the aluminium extrusion. 

 

Note in the photo that the bottom shelf is all 'clamped up' following repairs.   

Had often wondered how moths etc could enter the moho when all screens were closed, wasn't until I met up with Pip & Al and they said there's no mesh on the shower vent!  So I went to Bunnings and purchased a metre of insect mesh (can do many vents so maybe at the rally!!) removed the vent, cut the mesh to the outer edge, turn it over and cut nicks to the inner edge, fold over, tape and replace the vent.  Was a little bit tricky lining up the screws.  Recommend not doing this job in the wind as the outside vent is only held with the three screws.  Very happy with this latest mod.  Don't think photos all uploaded )-:

When we bought our Delaware we had to get a Gas Certificate.  One of the things he looked for was a vent in the roof that was at least 100 square millimetres in area.  This vent is needed to satisfy one of the requirements of the relevant Australian Standard, the name of which I cannot recall.  The vent in the shower satisfied the requirement and the certificate was issued.  Something to be mindful of is to ensure the vent’s cleanliness is maintained and I suspect that the insect mesh will be more prone to holding dust.

 

Peter

At home our primary source of water heating is solar, assisted by a wetback in winter and topped up as required by electricity throughout the year. Because of the variability of this system I am always conscious of the need to regularly heat the water to above 61 degrees to prevent legionella and other nasties invading the storage cylinder. BRANZ recommend that household hot water systems be designed to reach 60 degrees at least once each day.

 

I wonder if people consider this in their motorhomes? In case you haven't spotted it Truma's sanitizing procedure is as follows:

 

With gas selected heat the water to 60 degrees and once the temperature is attained leave it switched on and don't use any water for at least 30 minutes. During this period residual heat in the Truma unit will heat the water to about 70 degrees ensuring any harmful organisms are destroyed. Do this regularly.

 

They also recommend using non chlorine based chemicals to ensure the water remains safe.  

Hi, seeking advice on how do owners access the roof of their AT to clean it?  I am reluctant to lean an aluminium ladder against the MH in case it damages the fibreglass body.  The alternative is to get an A frame ladder that is 3m high?  I have an extendable soft brush where the handle extends about 3m but it doesnt extend far enough to reach the length of the MH roof.  Any advice is appreciated.

I have been told by Tony at AKMotor homes that you can walk gently on the roof for this sort of work...check Monday with them suggest.

I have a piece of 10 mm ply slightly wider than the top of my ladder, wrap an old towel around that and tie it to the top of ladder  and then lean it against the side of the motor home . A 3m brush reaches easily across roof. 

 

Similar to Beetle2 I wrap some old foam rubber around the ladder at the point where it rests on the MH. We keep ours garaged at home so I don't get any lichen or algae on top (they both love fibreglass) but with the horse float I squirt some "wet and forget" on the top about once a year to keep the growth at bay.

We have a telescopic ladder which we keep in the garage. Have tried both, single telescopic and double (can be used as an 'A' or straight. Provided you wrap a towel around the top if the legs, you don't damage the van surface).

The best tool I have in my fix-it box for my AT is a can of CRC Silicon. Unlike WD 40 or 5.56 it does not leave an oily residue and every hinge,widow latch,key lock even the gaskets around the windows get a spray on a regular basis in fact everything that opens and shuts gets a spray even puts a nice shine on the tyres. Can not recommend it enough 

Great idea, we have even found a mini can for our motorhome so that we can have a can on the road with us. Would you spray this into the locks of the outdoor lockers? We find they seem to need some 'encouragement' to unlock and seem quite stiff.  

Yes Sandy-Everything

 

Great, thanks!

Reposition the arm stays that hold the bed up, (Drill new holes) this enables a higher lift hight to reach under the bed.

Where the existing holes were, Cut out a rectangle area to fit a Plastic vent each side (Brown Vent purchased at Burnsco) I fitted Bins to put clothes in. Great drying room plus the vent put out more heat into the van.

 

             

Hi Les

 

Thank you so much for the suggestion and photos!  I am very keen to move the brackets on my Delaware but think there must be more to it than just moving the bottom bolt back?  Did you move the top of the bracket on the liftup part or leave where it is?  I have bought the vents but would just like some more detail if you don’t mind, thank you

 Hi Sue,

 

You do not need to move the top bracket.  I drilled and screwed som 6 mm thick aluminum plate to support the brackets.  The chipboard is quite light and I do not think it will take to long to start the bolts from wearing/crushing the chipboard.  You will get some idea on where you need to drill the new holes from my photos.  Rather than put in vents I plug the old holes with some caps from Clark Rubber.

Thanks so much for your photos Peter, I've now done the job, may consider adding the aluminium!

Continuing this discussion for anyone new to the idea, this is a very worthwhile mod.

However, you may also need to adjust the other end of the hinge where it attaches to the bed frame.  I had to.  It all depends on the geometry of the new bolt hole position in the base.  After shifting that hole I had a situation where the bed frame lowered to about 20 mm off closed.  Shifting where the hinge mounts to the bedframe was easier than to the base, so not an issue.  It also opens wider still.

Now the bed “opens wide”, enough that I can more easily climb in for pump servicing etc.

 

Les rightly suggested vents to release heat from under the bed, I also did that long before the bed mod.  It is beneficial.  I also drilled a 70 mm hole through the rear of the underbed into the garage, up high above the heater so that some warmth gets though into the garage.  This raised the winter temperature in there to help reduce any moisture from wet whatevers that find their way in their.

 

While on the subject of the bed, we purchased a Duvalay topper for ours.  They are custom made to measure in Yorkshire where we fitted our van out.  It was very expensive but worth every penny.  It also protects the bed for resale?  On top of that we have a normal woollen topper.

 

 Duvalay make fitted sheets as well, but that turned out to be cheap rubbish fabric, and again overly expensive.  After a couple of nights we ditched it and bought a standard bed higher quality fitted sheet, and that fits the curved mattress effectively.

 

JohnM

Copenhagen

                                   

New Blanking Plug                                       I get the existing plug and stick the two flaps down with silicon

Draughty Fiat cab?

 

Do you suffer from draughts in the cab when travelling? I am sure the answer is yes. The Fiat X250 cab (2007/2014) was basically designed for use as a delivery cab for vans, trucks etc. with a smallish cab area seperated from the load area. The cab is designed to allow fresh air to enter the cab through the dash vents, the fresh air then has to escape from the cab to keep maintain the circulation. The 'outlet' for the now, not so fresh air is situated on the near side of the cab behind the passenger seat and can only be located from under the vehicle. It is a plastic grille with a soft rubber membrane that opens and closes depending on the vehicle speed, the faster you go, the wider it opens, the bigger the draft, the colder your legs are!

Fiat produce a blanking plate to replace the outlet grille and is really effective in reducing the drafts around the cab. It is simple to change, being a snap fit and is also cheap to purchase from your local Fiat dealer.

The grill is situated on the nearside just forward of the gas locker and about 12" upwards. You can see it if you lie just under the edge of the van, you can reach it and change it without having to jack the vehicle up. As always make sure the handbrake is applied and the wheels are chocked if venturing underneath the van. The pictures below show the original grill, the replacement blanking plate and the part number/ description.

One of the 4 plastic clips that hold the sink in the bench top of our 2015 Dakota decided to spontaneously break apart.  I can only imagine the holding screw must have been slightly overtightened at the factory resulting in a crack which eventually, due to vibration, movement etc completely gave way.  We hadn't touched it at all.  The problem is the Taranaki/Ashburton RV centre is having trouble locating a clip.  Apparently Autotrail only supply them with a new sink.  Pretty ridiculous really - I don't want to spend several hundred dollars for the sake of a $2 plastic clip!!  Just wondered if anyone by chance someone might just happen to have a spare one floating around that I could purchase.  Superglue didn't hold - tried twice. Photo of offending clip below - it is completly in 2 bits

 

 

.

The issue is that the clip and rubber gasket is a part of the sink and not available separately. 

 

You could just use a long nut and bolt and a very large washer, or make a small metal tongue and use washers to hold it in place.  The original bolt may even be long enough? Pack the underside of the bolt with small washers before the tongue goes on.

 

I visited a huge RV parts company in Beverly, just along the road from Sargent, looking for a sink gasket and the dude said it was common to need replacements.  He said that most people use a black sealant under the edge to replace the gasket. Just a suggest for when that goes too?

 

JohnM

Nice

 

Bit of an update on the broken sink clip issue.  As I said above Superglue was useless - cracked apart with very little pressure on it.  Not that super after all!  However I'm pleased to report that Araldite (a 2 pot mix glue) did the job nicely.

The centre lockable cover for the spare wheel on our 2015 Dakota decided of its own accord to fall off somewhere in NZ.  I recall seeing others mention this had happened to them - possibly on the Autotrail NZ Facebook page.  By the time I bought the flap, key barrell & Autotrail badge the cost was north of $300 with nothing to say it wouldn't fall off again sometime soon. I decided to attach the flap to the MH body via the knurled knob holding the spare tyre on the back with a length of light chain.  A 38mm key ring fits round the shaft of the knob and I drilled a hole in the flap itself & put a stainless steel coach bolt through it to secure the other end of the chain to the flap.  Sticking the Autotrail badge on the flap covers up the bolt head.  All up cost - about $2.  Thought I would mention this to this group as if it saves someone over $300 it was worth it.  If you were doing this as a precaution (with the Autotrail badge already in place) you could probably use the screw holding the locking lever on the end of the barrell to attach the end of the chain to the flap itself.   I will add a photo in a second post - can't seem to include it in this post!

 

 

I lost mine at $160 to replace. I just put glue on the barrel locking nut so it does not turn and won't loosen in lock position. Les

Good little video here by a UK member with his version of the fix: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZfQdQwLfI7E&feature=youtu.be . Sounds as if we should all be adding a retainer to avoid the problem (although having done the best part of 40,000Kms I've never actually even inserted a key in that lock!)

So your spare is probably flat now!

That's a very good point, however I do carry a humongous pump just in case....

 

 

Hi Would anyone have had the need to fit new retainers to the boot lids ? I am about to replace mine but neglected to find out what length rivet is required to secure to the sandwich constucted side wall and boot lid.Thanks

The body sides consist of about 1.5 mm of plastic sheet bonded to a 40 mm sheet of polystyrene, then 3-4 mm of plywood covered in wall paper.

 

So your rivet is grabbing onto about 1.5 mm.

 

I’m looking at a chink I removed from my van. Sorry I don’t have a micrometer.

 

People argue that the outside is fibreglass but looking at the sample I have here it sure doesn’t look nor smell like fibreglass and more important there is no frayed glass fibres to the cut edge which is absolutely smooth like styrene.  Just saying?

 

Hope that helps

 

JohnM

Latvia

 

Recenlty been hunting for some aluminium channel to fix a bike rack to our Mohawk.

All suppliers apart from one (see below) would only sell stock lengths of 5m.

 

Got a response from Paynes Aluminium in Hornby, Christchurch who were only to willing to cut to length and sell in 1m increments. As a result I saved $100. Really friendly service from Tash and I would highly recommend them.

 

Contact details

p 03 344 0264

e tash@paynes.co.nz

 

Both the O and the T have fallen off the Autotrail sign at the back of our Apache 634.

Fortunately we found them. There doesn’t appear to be much adhesive under them. Has anyone else had this problem and what would be the best adhesive to attach them . 

Double sided tape... if you call into a paint and panel shop they will probably give you enough for a couple of letters or at least advise the best product. If any of the other letters are loose just apply a little heat with a heat gun and cut them off with dental floss, clean up and re-attach... YouTube is your friend.

Thanks for that

We had letters come off also.  The Autotrail dealer used a polymer based advesive, Sikaseal, and not a silicone based adhesive.  Silicone does not truly adhere to plastic or fibreglass.  Sikaseal is in a tube like the silicone based adhesives.  The process is to clean the area with acetone, apply the Sikaseal to the letter and put into position.  Sikaseal takes at least one day to cure so put a pieces of masking tape across the letter to hold it in place.  I left it in place for a week and then used WD40 to moisten and remove the tape.

 

Peter

Any body know how to change a bulb in the rear tailights, presumably you need to remove the lens and this is the part I am not sure what you are supposed to do. 

I haven't done this myself but our service centre used a L shaped device to poke into the slot at the bottom of the lens to release the lens. Hope this helps.

 

Hi again, Finally out at beautiful Muriwai Beach in our AT Tracker EKS and wondering if I am doing something wrong? the awning is a Thule Ormiston 6200. Does anyone know how I can make the 2 awning fold out legs more stable to prevent it from sliding up and down. There is a little lever to slide the legs giving more or less length, depending on the height you want. Once pegged into the ground you can still slide the legs up or push the height down with your hand. Is there a way to lock this to prevent this from sliding because I fear if a gust of wind catches this it will damage the awning. I didn't have this problem with the Fiamma on my previous MH.  Unfortunately I left the manual at home. Cheers, Bman

Hi if you press the little plastic lever on the leg hard up that locks the leg

cheers,

Richard

Thanks Richard, your advice did the trick.  The little lever was very tight to push hard up but it worked.  I was a little apprehensive at first as I thought the plastic lever would snap off.

A fantastic forum.  I look forward to reading more tips and valuable advice.

 

Cheers, Bman

Does anyone know what looks like a plastic black vent underneath my Delaware does? It's located forward of the left rear wheel and under the fridge or toilet cassette compartment. The "vent" opens towards the rear.

 

Hi Grant and Gail,

 

It will be a vent to allow gas to escape from the fridge if there is a gas leak for some reason.  You will find two more under the entry step door and also one under the island bed.  The island bed is for the water and space heater.  The final one is under the stove.

 

Regards

 

Peter

 

The side decals on our Delaware have faded really badly, and getting replacement decals from Autotrail, or repainting, was way too expensive. This affected all the silver decals along both sides of our van.

 

After discussing it with a panelbeater, he suggested trying Sign Formula, who do custom decals for cars and trucks.

 

The next day, they had covered our old faded decals with new ones, cut exactly to size, and matched to the original. It looks fantastic, and only cost $385 for the covering every decal.

 

They also did some custom graphics for me, which they printed and positioned, at a very reasonable cost. I supplied the image files.

 

So, if you've got damaged decals and want to replace them, or have some custom graphics or a slogan, they do a really good job at a reasonable price.

 

Sign Forumula

7a Smales Rd,

East Tamaki,

Auckland

Ph:09 273-8158

 

 

Well done Chris. Looks like a great job and something that most of us will face in time.

Did they remove the old decals before fitting the new ones?

No, they just fixed the new decals over the top. Normally they would remove the old decals, but the silver decals are very thin, and would have to be removed a little piece at a time. This would have been very time consuming, adding a lot to the cost, for very little benefit. The old decals were faded, but stuck firmly in place. Because they are very thin, you now can't tell that there is anything under the new decals.

Hi,

 

We've just imported an Apache 634 from the UK which we found to be a relatively simple and painless process. I'm happy to share info about how we did this with anyone if they are interested.

 

We're enjoying our new vehicle, a replacement for our aging Toyota Coaster, but there are a couple of questions which other members may have faced and dealt with.

 

1. Our Apache 634 has a DC outlet and a USB port on the dash which are only powered when the ignition is on. There is no DC outlet or USB port in the back for general use, although we've found that we can plug other devices into the TV's DC power supply which is hidden behind the TV.

 

We'd like to be able to charge / use other devices whilst stationary so want to install an other DC socket. I'm not an auto electrician but have two thoughts: presumably we could have sockets installed professionally, but I wonder if it is possible to plug a double DC socket into the existing TV outlet without causing an overload? Has anyone experienced and solved this problem?

 

2. On our first journey there was a very annoying rattle coming from the back. Eventually we traced it to the magnetic strips in the flyscreens that cover the side door. A quick and dirty fix has been to run a strip of masking tape down each of the magnetic strips. It solves the problem and doesn't affect the working of the screens but it isn't that neat. Has anyone come up with a better solution?

 

3. The only significant problem with importing our vehicle was that the person who did the self containment created a high-spot in exit pipe from the sink so it didn't drain. We didn't discover this until we were about 200km away on our journey from Auckalnd to Nelson and didn't understand what was causing the problem until we got home: it wasn't practical to go back to have it fixed. Whilst fixing the problem myself the exit pipe became detached from the sink so I had to unscrew and lift the sink above the worktop. The problem I now have is how to secure the sink without removing the fridge. Again, any thoughts?             

 

Looking forwards to hearing any good ideas / thoughts and also sharing what we've learned after 11 years of motor-homing in NZ. 

Hi Martin,

 

we also have a self imported 2015 Apache 634, good choice !!!

 

1) Our 634 came with a USB charging port in the cupboard to the right of the TV (top shelf, left hand side).  Have you checked there?

In any event it is a relatively simple process to access the 12V behind the TV and rout an extension through into this cupboard.  Removing the cover pannel in the cupboard above the TV provides great access and makes the job very easy.  The Avtex TV draws 23W (max) and the 12 V feed also supplies the TV antenna amplifier plus the USB outlet, (it also later powered the sat tv antenna for a while, see below) so you should be fine to draw 12 V from this location for low ampage chargers.

 

Alternatively you can run a new 12V feed from the battery.  This I did because the KiwiSat satellite antenna we later installed had a feature that folded the antenna down when the vehicle is started.  Unfortunately it didnt work as the Sargent pannel also uses the same feature to cut off supply to all non essential 12V loads when the engine is running.

 

So I ran a new 12V supplyfrom the battery (dont forget to put in a 5-10A fuse) to the sat TV antenna controller which is installed in the aformentioned cupboard.  The 2 core wire runs inside the duct that gas heater vent (and 230v supply) use and comes thru behind the gas heater and under the rear RH seat to the battery.  Although a bit tricky the cable routing was done using a "mouse line" with a small lead sinker attached, startind from the top and working down and across to the battery.

 

I would be happy to walk you through the process if that helps.

 

2)  No specific advice for the fly screen rattles other than what works for att rattles, patience, perciverence and inginuity!

 

3)  We had the same problem with the sink drain and Autotrails are notorious for not properly draining.  There are a number of posts on this site relating to the issue.  The sink goes back the same way it came out.  No need to to remove the fridge.  And make sure you fit a hose clip on the sink drain before re-installing to prevent it coming adrift again.  

 

Hope this all makes sense?

 

Cheers,

 

Chris

Brilliant reply thank you Chris: I'm heading stright out to the Apache to see what I can discover re the USB following your advice.

 

Re the sink, yes I can sit in place and it holds relatively securely, the issue is getting the plastic 'clamping nuts' to sit in place: when I'm completely satisfied with the draining system my plan is to make sure that I get 2 of the 4 perfectly alligned as I reckon  2 will keep everything secure 

 

Since writting my post I had a good hunt arounfd the forum: I hadn't realised that my comments would have fitted better in the Autotrail section and liked the comment re using a standard 32mm U-bend for the sink.

 

Thanks for your help Chris, really appreciated,

 

Martin 

Chris: yes there is a 'very cleverly disguised' USB port in the cupboard as you thought which will be very useful in the short term, but I'll be putting in an additional DC outlet as you suggest. Thanks again.

 

I like this forum: within a few hours of joining this user group I've had one problem solved and another two well on the way to resolution. Brilliant!

 

I just hope that I'll be able to help other members in the not too distant future!

 

Martin

Hi Martin,

the flyscreen door has been a source of small issues for me thankfully now solved. My solution for the rattling magnetic strips was to run a bead of hot melt glue down one edge of both strips. After around six months it is still keeping the strips silent. I used hot glue as it is relatively easy to remove if necessary without any damage to the substrate. Cheers,

 

I was wondering about adhesives but the permanance was a concern,  so hot-melt glue sounds like a better solution. The masking tape is still in place but has a couple of splits in it and clearly was only a temporary fix: I'll get out there with the glue gun!  

 

Thank you

Hi i joined the group last week and have been avidly reading all the posts . I'm currently in Scotland were I recently purchased a 2012 Mohawk which should be heading to NZ later this year. I've noticed the drainage from the kitchen sink is poor and have been interested in your advice. What is the best way to access the drain for modifications  as the sink is directly above the fridge ??

 

Frank,

on our Apache 634 the sink is secured from above with 4 screws/clips.  If these are released, the sink just lifts out.  Not sure what the set up is on the Mohawk, it could be similar?

Hi Chris

thanks for that . Just checked and its as you say. I will take it off tomorrow then try and figure out how to improve the draining.

Hi Frank, I thought I'd posted a reply yesterday but it seems to have got lost...

 

My info is based on an 2016 Apache 634.

Our sink is to the RHS of a unit with 2 drawers at the top with a cupboard below. When I remove the drawers I expose the flixible sink hose which enters the unit, turns 90 deg to the back wall and then runs down the back wall of the unit. For NZ compliance you nee to insert a U bend / food trap with 1 metre of the sink. I had ours professionally converted and this was done with a narrow bore ubend at the top of the back wall: useless. I've now dropped the u bend about 25 cm down the back wall which gives a small head of pressure which helps, but my next job will be to replace the narrow bore pipe and ubend installed professionally with 32 mm pipe and bend. Fortunately the rubber jointing sleeve that they used to join the flexible hose to the narrow bore pipe forms a tight joint when inserted into 32 mm pipe. I don't know who supplies these sleeves but I should be able to find out.

 

If you have a similar set up I suggest you do not remove the sink: I've found it tricky to get the clips back into place.

 

If you want to know mre about our experiences with importing a camper into NZ please let me know. 

   

Hi Martin

thanks for that. Unfortunately the Mohawk has the sink directly above the fridge so the only access is to remove the sink. 

On the question of importing to NZ I would be happy to pick your brains on that . I’ve  imported a few caravans over the years but this is my first motor home. Did you get a Chassis Rating Certificate as suggested by Avocadopicker in an earlier post. Part of the documentation required is a certified copy or photograph of the manufacturer’s chassis rating plate from the vehicle. What do they mean  by “certified” . 

Previously when I imported a caravan I was able to register the van and get the rego plates before i went to pick it up and take it to VTNZ for a COF. What is the process with a motorhome. My agent will have it delivered to VTNZ but i wasn’t sure about registration and plates.

 

Thanks again

Frank

Certified as in I got my solicitor to sign a printed copy of a photo of the VIN plate to demonstrate that it was really the vehicle being applied for. VTNZ (we used the Silvia Park one) actually issue the rego plates AFTER they've done the full COF inspection, but need the CRC paper to complete that process.

 

Thanks Avocadopicker thats very helpfull, I'll get my CRC application in now, Gives me plenty of time before I ship

 

Hi Martin T, yes we would love to hear your experience with importing from UK. Any tips, learning experiences are invaluable on this forum too.

Avocarderpicker/Mark Roaming

Sorry about the delay with the reply: we been away enjoying the camper!

Our shipping agent Joe Steele at McCullough, Auckland arranged everything for us: we just provided the camper, the documentation we got in the UK when we bought the vehicle and arranged for Peter at RV Repairs Glenfield to make the necessary modifications after Joe had fixed everything else: great service. 

Once I'd taken delivery of the camper I contacted João Marques at ATECO NZ re the Fiat warranty and he registered our vehicle with Fiat so we now have Fiat's 3 year worldwide guaranatee, but this has yet to be tested. It will be soon however as I've noticed that we have condensation in one of the rear foglights! 

For us a painless exercise once we got our doccs from DVLC in Swansea, which took about 3 weeks.

We wouldn't hesitate to use the same system again, no hassel at all!    

The rear lights condensation is an ongoing and very common problem, but unfortunately not covered by the Fiat warranty as it's part of the motorhome body. Depending on who you bought from in the UK, they may be able to make a warranty claim against AT and send you the parts. Good luck with that, as they say. 

People looking for a USB at the rear of their bus - if you have a skybox installed then that should have a port on the back!! Et voila.

Hi all. The vinyl decal on the edge of the bonnet has developed what appear to be small brown spots on the silver section. They appear to be within the vinyl and don't come off. Has anyone else had this problem or knows the cause?

 

 

 

Hi - the bottom decal on our bonnet has all gone brown, so possibly you could be at the early stage of where we currently are? I suspect that there is something wrong with the product, I'll see if I can post a photo I have just taken, and you will see the stage of ours...

We have what looks like rust spots on the silver started appearing about a year ago.

This is what ours looks like now??

Hi Peter and Boltman it looks like we have the same problem and that there is a fault in the decal. I have notified Ashburton RV who sold us the RV and they have ordered replacements. It may take some weeks to arrive and I will try to get more information about how big the problem may be as I am concerned that some of the other decals may develop the same fault although no sign as yet.

Hi

I have just had a detailed look all around our Tracker, and this decal on the bottom of the bonnet would appear to be the only one breaking down (at the moment??). It would appear to now be cracking as well as decolouring, so I assume that it will only get worse in time? I will look to replace it locally asap.... Interesting that it is doing this, as we keep ours under inside storage when we are not travelling around, so the outside weather exposure is really minimal.

I have seen, on the Forum I think, an item showing how the door handle on the bathroom door can be replaced with a small door knob. I can't find the item. Please can someone help. 

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/181911007058?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

 

Is this what you are looking for have to order 2 to have handle each side

Thank you - just what I was looking for. Where did you find the answer to my query?

I think it was from UK Autotrail site 

I print out bits like this by screen capture so no details apart from product

I have some of these handles in stock  . give a lot more room in my appache bathroom   contact me if you want some .  the shaft will need modifying  . if you want to know more   please contact me  Ross Calgher

ANY ONE INSTALLED A REAR ROOF LADER ANY ADVICE WOULD BE WELCOME.

Hi Dusty

 

Our Delaware has a rear ladder.  The only time we access the roof is when I want to do a thorough wash.  As teh last section of the ladder is vertical and the stiles essentialloy stop above the roof about 250 mm above the roof, getting onto and off of the roof can be challenging.  I get up to the top and then put my hands onto the roof and "crawl onto it." Getting down is the reverse.  Get on your hands and knees and then down the ladder.  There is not much distance between the rungs and the back of the van, so if you have size 10 feet, you will have to use the balls of you feet on the rung rather than your insteps.  Hope this gives some insight.

 

Peter

Hi Steve

we had the same problem and we use a small rubber wedge like a door stop wedge but smaller,cut it down lengthwisei so that it doesn't touch the window as it goes up and downi and fit it between the top of the black door frame at elbow level if you know what I mean and the window trim,works really well

Cheers

Richard

My sliding window shade on the driver's side is broken and doesn't work well anymore . 

Has someone got the same problem or managed to have it replaced? 

My campervan is a Fiat Ducato Autotrail Mohawk.2013

 

Can anyone tell me if they have had to purchase lettering for the word "auto trail" on the front of their van?

 

We have lost the letter "i" in trail, we called into Dury on the way home from Auckland last week, and Tony from the service centre, said that, that letter was the most common for owners to lose??

 

The options seem to be to buy the whole "word (s) " from them, or source alternatively? Depending upon the members response I get, or not, I may look to go to the manfacturers in the UK, and see if I can purchase just the letter... 

Hi Peter

 

I was curious about the possibility of obtaining parts direct from the factory at Grimsby because I will be in the UK (Hull) shortly and I though that I might call by... hence I asked them about your problem. Their answer below:

 

Unfortunately the letters are not available separately, they come as a complete decal.

 

they are £45.00 plus carriage and vat.  The part number you will need is 14MAS0005.

 

If you wish to order one, please call our parts team on 01472 571003 and they will be able to assist you

 

Kind regards

The biggest hassle with parts purchased from dealers in the UK is ,

A/ Lack of a UK address or

B/ Waiting till a friend or relative is going that way so they can collect

 

Now- NZ Post has a system called "YouShop" where they will give you a UK address for shipping AND send it back to NZ. I have yet to try it but if it works as per NZ Posts web site it will be an invaluable tool for members struggling with local suppliers and specfic parts peculiar to Autotrail like the above

 

Check out the web site

Thanks all,

 

I actually emailed UK autotrail and they came back saying that they would only supply the approved NZ agent, and not anyone else, and of course thats AMH - Drury....

 

Tony from AMH has since come back and said that they can supply the entire whole words for $90, so this sounds like the only option available.

 

UK will only supply the whole words as well..in the UK.

 

So I will order a whole set of letters, and if anyone else has the same problem as I have had, I will have every letter other than the ("i) in trail, available. 

We lost the L so we hit AMH up for a replacement which we got free of charge.

 I live in the UK and on with my second autotrail will be my last as well I had new lettering put on the van bonnet I just took in to a graphic design place they took a photo of the writing and just matched the missing lettering and printed a new one took old lettering of with hairdryer and replaced or do you need the metal letters.also if you need new parts go to  Leisure direct  or  Olearys  they may have what you need half the price of autotrail

I've just renewed my COF, and was told that the rear reflectors on my Delaware don't comply with our NZ regs. Apparently they should be within 150 mm of the side of the van. It's not a major as stickon reflectors will do the job, but it's the first time I've been told this after owning the vehicle for over two years, and 4 COF tests!

Yes-Rear reflectors are a requirement for COF. However I doubt if its rigidly enforced but for those that dont have them it would pay to get a couple of stick on ones as it just one less hassle if you get rejected.

DOOR FLY SCREEN STRINGS

AT NZ Facebook post:  We have a 2012 Delaware and the string in the flyscreen on the door has pulled. Is there an easy fix?.

Comments:

* Just had to have our bedroom window fly screen strings replaced... cost $90.00 each.  Weathermaster in Onekawa, Napier..

They didn’t think they would be able to do it, but we took the blinds to them, and did a trial run with one, then they were confident to do the other, it’s caused by dust, so we are now spraying silicon on the tracks down the sides.

To repair the cords the screen needs to be taken out as complete unit. Remove top corner cap to get to the two screws attaching it to the door frame.  The bottom securing screws are prominent in the sill. Lift and remove the screen

It is easy to do yourself but you need to take care to understand how it works first.

 

You need a large work surface to lie the window on while working on it, and only dismantle one corner at a time until you fully understand the pulley system.  Take your time and it is easy.  Leave the string remnants in place until you know where they go.

 

You need a pair of fine tweezers to string the securing terminals, that is where the end of the string goes.

 

I did mine on a Camping table, but don’t try doing it on the ground or in the van.

 

John

Riva Del Garda

HABITATION DOOR OPENING IN TRANSIT
AT NZ Facebook Post:    Today twice the hab door has flung open after about 2 minutes down the road. Gave us a heck of a fright the first time and thought maybe we didn't close it properly but when it happened the second time knowing I had checked it was closed. Now sitting on the edge off my chair waiting for it to happen again. Can anyone else has this happen?

Comments:

 
-  When you start the engine the step retracts and the habitation electrics are disabled. You are able to open the Hab door with the motor running, it is not interlocked.  This would suggest that the door was not closed properly or more likely it is not latching properly. It is common to have to adjust the latching bars on the door frame. Have a check to see if you can push the door open without the handle.

-  The door doesn't completely open without the handle when we push it but it does move about 10 to 20mm.

-  There should be no movement in the door when stationary. The door section of the hab wall is the weakest point on the wall and could have some small flexing when traveling.

 

-Adjust the door stricter plates for a firm latch ( both top & bottom) as the first step to fault finding the problem.

 

Hi, On my 2013 Scout I am finding that I now need to manually lock the habitation door. The locking mechanism has always been a little flakey, but now it would appear to not function at all. Does anyone have any bright ideas as to where I should be looking?! Many thanks. I now see that this question has been asked before under "Bodywork and Trim". Seem the servo may be playing up.

I had the same problem. It turned out to be defective lock motor in the door, which I replaced. It's a German part and although quite cheap, the shipping is eye-wateringly expensive. See my other post re fixing it.

Hi

 

Is this the part?

 

http://www.conrad-electronic.co.uk/ce/en/Search.html;jsessionid=31D05615E6A397F5C6946D90AFA290CF.ASTPCEN24?search=ML3605&searchType=mainSearchBar

 

If you get it from Conrad in the UK and send it via NZ Post YouShop (you have to register for YouShop, see under NZ Post website) it would be quite cost effective. I had a small parcel from the USA recently and it was less than $20 postage. Once registered YouShop have local addresses in the UK, USA and China.

 

Mike

On my 2014 Delaware the part number was a Waeco/Dometic ML-3602. Looks very similar but hard to tell. Looks like a good deal if it's compatible.

My 2011 Delaware had two contacts on the lock side of the habitation door which were used for control of the central locking. Autotrail have changed this on later models which have a rubber boot on the hinge side to bring the control for the central locking into the door.

Not sure what version is on your 2013 Scout but if your door uses the two contacts then these have a habit of corroding and hence make a poor electrical contact. Cleaning with fine sandpaper helps.

Thank you. Cleaning the contacts was he answer. Joy!!

There is also another fix available:

1.cut a small square of plastic out of a used ice cream container, or similar.

2.Slide this under the two electrical connections in the bottom of the habitation door, ( opposite the two contacts mentioned above ) this makes a positive connection when the door is shut, and completes the electrical connection.

Very simple, but most effective.

 

Comanche.

Habitation door has the stay-arm on it but as we all know the wind can still blow it shut when wide open.

Has anyone found an attachment that can be used to hold the door open.

It would need to be about 200 mm long I think as the door doesn't open flush back against the van when open.

I would ideally like something in white plastic that clips on to the side of the van tidily when the door is closed.

 

Thanks

The best attachment is a chrome on brass hook 100mm long secured to a strong spot (just to right of the gas door on a Delaware) where the screws go into more thaan just the thin outer panel. I bought a second hook to get another eye so when the hook is not holding the door it is latched securely and not swinging around.

 

Automatic Catched Door Stop

Available at Mitre 10 etc

 

              

I wrote to Autotrail asking if there was a strong point in the door and bodywork to attach a latching system. This is their reply:

 

Hi,

 

The door and the sidewall of the vehicle do not have any strengthening pieces bonded in as this will cause print through on the surface material. The only real way to fix to either panel is to use peel back rivets. These spread out behind the outer skin to form a secure fixing. You will need to be very careful securing the door back as the door stay may rip out of the panel if wind gets behind the door.

 

Regards

 

Steve Moverley

Director of Design and Development

Main office: +44 ­(0)1472 571000

Tel direct: NA

Mob: NA

Fax: +44 ­(0)1472 571002

Web: www.auto-trail.co.uk

Auto-Trail VR Limited - Trigano House, Genesis Way, Europarc, Grimsby, North East Lincolnshire, DN37 9TU, United Kingdom

You could remove the door inner lining (not too hard to do if you know how ;-) ) and also reach the inner of the skin near the gas cupboard (obviously depends on model) and fit a smallish piece of reinforcing timber to each for the screws to bite on.

A few weeks ago I happened to notice that the hab door lock was silent when locking/unlocking, and realised that we had been 'locking' up and walking away when in fact the hab door was still unlocked. To cut a long story short the locking servo wasn't working - all other remote functions worked properly, cab doors, step, welcome home light, etc, both remotely and with dashboad lock/unlock. After much trepidation I managed to remove the interior lining of the hab door (2014 Delaware), which turned out to be really easy - undo all the screws you can find, then gently lever the lining from the middle near the window to separate the velcro holding it on. I removed the servo assembly and it undoubtedly didn't work. A new one from Germany (Waeco product) is only 22 Euros, but 125 Euros shipping! Time to save money - I dismantled the servo mechanism, removed and dismantled motor, cleaned commutator and realigned brushes - sorted! I have a bunch of photos taken during the process if anyone else faces the same problem.

Hi I have just joined the club, and although it is a while since your post, yes, I have the same problem, so would be interested if you still have those photographs, seems to me that there are several standard problems with these auto trails. Cancel the above, we have found that the problem is a small bend in the bottom door hinge, caused when a strong wind caught the door and broke the door stop on the van wall, by packing the electric connection Pins at the bottom of the door with a piece of plastic from an ice cream container, this has restored the electrical connection to the door frame when the door is shut. No servo failure at this point, a temporary solution I know, but at least the van is secure. We'll have to remove the bottom hinge and gently bend a couple of mms.

Recently we have had the misfortune of having the springs on the side door latches break hence travelling home with the door tied up with rope. Looking at the springs they appear to be just about at full stretch in the locked position but they then have to expand a further 20mm to unlatch. To have both springs fail within days of each other suggests a design fault.Speaking to John at Taranaki RV, Dometic the manufacturers, don't supply parts they expect you to replace the whole locking mechanism at the cost of several hundred dollars. I have contacted a spring manufacturer in Auckland who is going to make me some replacements for about $10 each. I have ordered extra's so if anybody else strikes the same problem I am only too happy to supply at cost. We have been unable to source the correct spring anywhere else in NZ.

We had the top latch spring break recently and for $50 labour included it was replaced yesterday at AMH.

Over the past couple of months I've noticed that the automatic step on our 2012 Delaware makes a loud ratcheting noise just before it stops when being retracted. Then we started to get intermittent alarms from the Sargent controller after starting the engine, or while driving. RSE were too busy to look at it, so after several emails back and forth to Sargent, I was getting really frustrated - not much fun driving while the alarm is sounding, claiming that the step is still out, when I know that it is fully retracted. According to both RSE and Sargent, the problem was likely to be in the controller, or an electrical short somewhere. I tried poking around, and checked the door limit switch, but without any success.

 

In desperation, I tried contacting Ovaland, who are based in Hamilton. Paul was happy to have a look, but wasn't familiar with the Sargent controller, so the 90 minute drive to Hamilton wasn't necessarily going to provide a solution. But I decided to go anyway.

 

We started the engine, and Paul got under the step and moved it up and down, setting off the alarm every time he pulled it down. Problem solved - the plastic gear train in the step motor had lost some teeth where they had been stressed by the step coming to its stop - which you can see if you look closely at the large gear in the picture.

 

The solution was to replace the step motor - cost around $380 fitted. Plus the new one has metal gears, which will never fail in the same way. It was all done in just over an hour.

 

The reason for this long description, is that the original Autotrail step motor is so badly designed that it is inevitable that they will all eventually fail in the same way. Maybe the newer vans have metal gears, but my 2012 Delaware didn't, and Paul has seen a several cases like this, not just from Autotrail.

 

The good news is that it is easily fixed. Ovaland is just around the corner from the importer of the spare parts, and in our case it was all done within a couple of hours.

 

So this is a free plug for Ovaland should you need any work done - they can sort out most bodywork and electrical issues. Click on the logo to visit their website.

So pleased you have at last found a fix for your step problem Chris. Thank you for sharing it with us. Autotrail prides itself as an upmarket motorhome manufacturer however it doesn't always use high quality fittings. 

Yes, I hope they have sorted this for the newer models, especially as the replacement is built to last. 

Has anybody had issues with the Thule electric door step? The step on ours does not extend fully but it can be pushed into the fully opened position. It retracts without a problem p

The step opens to a set number of cycles from the stepper motor, which is set in the Sargent controller. It's unlikely that this would have changed, so it may be that you have some worn gear teeth corresponding to the step being fully extended. Which would be why you can just pull it out. You could potentially remove the step motor unit and open it up to check for yourself, but I'd suggest calling in to Overland, which is not that far from Taupo.

Thanks for the advice Chris. We disconnected the push on electrical connectors and removed the drive unit off the step. A breeze, there is only 1 bolt fixing it to the step frame. Opened up the gear box and yep there were two teeth missing off the large (driven) teflon gear. We rotated the gear 180 degrees and reassembled all working again, but i will change the drive to one with metal gears. Thanks Chris

Glad you got it sorted. This does appear to be an almost inevitable problem as our vans get older. David, this would be a good question for the Autot-trail MD at the rally. There really is no excuse for using plastic gears when there is a much more durable option available. Hopefully, they have already addressed this with their newer models.

As mentioned by Les, a few rallys ago, sometimes all that is required is an electrical relay or fuse fix in the Sargent Panel.

We had a long and expensive saga with Mount Auto Electrical in Tauranga; this involved me mentioning the possibility of the above scenario, but being told initially that they would need to investigate the step.

Fair enough, but always find an AutoElectrician who knows Autotrail, and find out there hourly rate for investigation if not knowledgeable.

Bottom line, No Sargent Fault, need a new step motor........Oops, had to leave for the South Island so took the motor for installation at home ( Christchurch) Paid big money for time spent and new motor.

Went to our local contact, Steve at Coach and Panel in Hornby.

Phone call a couple of days later, no fault with the step motor, just a relay/ fuse in the Sargent unit. very small cost.

Any one need a step motor at a reasonable price? Let me know 

 

As we have been told in the past, find a service person who knows Fiat/ Autotrail or negotiate a no fix, no pay deal.

See Auto step issues above! This sums it up nicely, and once again shows the power of our forum for solving issues!

Step polyfuse replacement https://www.dropbox.com/s/qlpyin1dnns8var/Polyfuse%20Replacement%20V6.pdf?dl=0

Stella, do you still have the motor/gearbox that you purchased? Can you phone me on 021 613 448 Allan

 

Just want to say a big thankyou to Ovaland Motorhmes in Hamiltion. After reading the above comments and having had trouble with our step we headed to Ovaland in Hamilton and was impressed with the service we received. We would highly recommend to everyone.

If it is intermittent, the problem must be a contact somewhere - most probably in the switch but could even be the fuse contacts. if the fuse had blown, it would not work at all.

This is a quote from Sargent

Background

A small number of customers may experience a problem with the motorhome step operation, due to a problem with a protective device (a polyfuse, which is an automatic resetting fuse) that provides the over current and entrapment protection for the step.

Unfortunately a small number of these protection devices have been found to trip below their rated current.

Only motorhomes built between November 2010 and June 2011 maybe affected.

The failure manifests itself as the step moves only sporadically, but this should not be confused with the step being jammed or dirty which may produce similar symptoms. So it is important to correctly diagnose the cause of any step problem, and not just assume it is the polyfuse. 

 

Send me an email and I will copy you the instructions. toddr@ihug.co.nz. The thermal fuse itself is very cheep and if you are competent you can do it yourself. I can send you a fuse if it's the problem. 

I had the problem with the step parking itself partially out or in, real pain. But since replacing the thermal fuse, no problem since.

I had the same symptom, but fortunately found it was a loose connector on the circuit board.  Sergeant did send me the instructions Rob mentioned.

 

http://autotrailusers.nz/ForumFiles/1012/Polyfuse%20Replacement%20V6%20(002)(1).pdf

I have two 120amp hour deep cycle AGM E2 Nomad house batteries installed in parallel under the front seats (they fit on their sides) . I have wired in a 2000w inverter and get an insane voltage drop when using a 1200w hair drier - 12.7 volts down to 10.1 volts. Fortunately the inverter kept going for 5 minutes. Previously when using an 1800w hair drier the inverter just cut out.  

When I had the same inverter wired to the house batteries in my Delaware the voltage drop was only down to 12v from 12.6 in the morning and it handled an 1800w hair drier no trouble. Then often cooked some toast!  

Is my problem the small size AGM batteries even that they are 120ahr? Do they have a lot more internal resistance?

Hi Dave,

Options give Lyn a hair cut or Sounds like your batteries have lost their guts..Lithium battery needed. Maybe the batteries have been getting to much of the good life in the way of 230v charging, solar is easy on batteries.

We have a cheap 1000 watt hair drier I let Annette use it on low speed...about 45 amps draw. not high at about 90 amps.

No problems 

Regards Les

MICROWAVE
AT NZ Facebook post:     Wanting to run our microwave through 1000 watt “modified” not pure sign wave inverter! Anybody tried this?

 

Comment:

-  I would NOT try it.
-  What's the current draw of your microwave oven? 
-  Microwave is 700 watt.
-  Is that cooking power or input power draw.
-  The microwave draws a lot more than 700w. I melted fuses on 2500w PSW inverter. I've successfully used 3kw PSW inverter to run the microwave. You'll be needing a grunty battery too!
-  I tried it on our 1000watt inverter not quite enough power to start it but at least it didn’t cook anything phew!!
-  The question I really had was whether I needed a pure sign wave or just modified sign wave.
-  Yes. You need pure sine wave. At least 2k.5 kw and more batteries.  If adding batteries most likely you will need to change them all. Attaching new batteries to old ones is a really bad idea.
-  No issues with using the microwave in our Delaware, we have a 2kw PSW invertor and two AGM no maintenance leisure batteries.
-   Should use pure sine wave inverter as mod is more a square wave output and very hard on your batteries.

I thought it would be more appropriate to connect an inverter to the vehicle battery as the draw off is short with high amps. We use the inverter only for a hair drier and a toaster. What do others think?

Well, ignoring efficiencies, and losses in the DC-AC converter, keep it simple, a small 1200 watt hair dryer needs 12volts @ 100 amps, my wife takes a fair few minutes to dry her hair, say ten minutes, one sixth of an hour, so about 16.66 amp hours, plus efficiencies add about 33%, about 22 amp hours?

This is a quick approximation.  My wife's dryer is 1700 watts, so add another 50%.

 

Assuming you are free camping, would you risk depleting your starter battery?

 

The original reason for adding leisure batteries was to preserve the starter battery from being drained by the couple of 12 volt incandescent lamps in the rear of the early "camper" vans.  While modern motorhomes are more sophisticated the purpose of the leisure battery remains the same.

Further, the deep cycle capability of the leisure battery is designed to provide high currents for longer than a vehicle battery which is designed for very high starter motor currents for relatively short periods.

 

John

And if your vehicle battery is only 100AH in the first place, and is completely depleted at 50%, then eating nearly half your available capacity for starting is probably not a good idea. Couple that with the 'modern' idea of the latest Euro6 method of only part-charging the vehicle battery anyway and you would rapidly not be in a good place. Incidentally my wife's hairdryer costs us about 8AH with each use - only 1100W and used in bursts, which barely makes a dent in our 240AH of available leisure battery, and the ability to use the microwave on occasions is pure luxury!

 

Having added two additional solar panels and shortly will have changed to a 200 AH Lithium Iron Phosphate house battery, I now want to add a 2000W 12V DC to 230V AC inverter (to be wired to the 230V circuit).  

 

Can anyone recommend a suitable brand that has proven reliable and is not outrageously expensive?

 

Has anyone any experience with these units from waveinverter.co.nz?

 

http://waveinverter.co.nz/power-inverter/inverter-charger/2000w-inverter-charger

 

They are from China, include an integral charger, have 3 pre-programmed battery charging cycles and the option of "user program". I.e. Lithium Iron Phosphate battery setup.

 

The price looks good, but just want to hear/learn from others experience.

 

 

 

 

Hi, 

This is the inverter I have been using 12v dc  2000 watt  At $329 no problems

 

Thomas on Trademe Listing # 1316740533

 

Les

 

 

 

Hi

I googled "Must power Inverter" and google came back as a Blacklisted Supplier with maybe a 10 to 15 failure rate and poor communication. Suggest you find another brand. 

 

Steve

 

Having repaired a few inverters in the past if you want reliability I'd stay away from cheap units with no servicing outlets and stick with a known brand.  I can't comment on other brands but I have a projector 1000W Inverter which I take over it's limit with startup current for a small Koh-i-Nor Spin dryer. The inverter is over 4 years old and regularly used on trips, we lived in our van for 2 years full time recently and been 100% reliable.  The unit has a remote meter and control unit so you can mount the main unit close to the battery then operate/control from a convenient point in the cabin.  There is a 2000W version available but I haven't looked up available prices and not sure if available in NZ.  Regards IanG

Thanks Ian, Steve and Les.

 

I note the Google blacklist for MustPower was in 2015, but do understand the concern.

 

Les and Ian, am I correct in assuming there is no mains supply switching in these units and therefore you have not wired them into the 230V system in the AutoTrail?  I.e. Appliances are plugged directly into the inverter as and when required?

Hi Chris, In my case no but the new projector inverter in my link has an AC transfer switch for that puropse so there is no need to change plugs over from power points as I need to do now.

Regards IanG

Thanks Les, looks like a good unit at an attractive price.

 

For comparison the Projecta 12v 2000W inverters are available in NZ for  $1679 (2 year warranty).

 

Did you hard wire the output from your JYINS inverter into the AT 230v wiring, or are you plug swapping?

 

Regards,

 

Chris

 

Hi Chris,

I Have just brought my Third one which is waiting for my new Delaware to arrive, last one was still OK after four years and I got one for a friend thats OK.

 

I did hard wire at the start by just pluging it in on the side bottom locker where I mounted the inverter and ran the 12v up behind the drivers seat with a circuit braker switch, and mounted a 4 way power box which I use with a lead, because I found the Fridge would go over from Gas to AC due to AES. You can set the fridge  manually but the problem is you forget, lot of drain on the batteries, so I unpluged the power feed to the Van supply from the inverter.

 

New van will have dedicated inverter power points, I think.

 

I had a 300amp/H Lithium Battery in that Van

 

Regards Les

Hi

We have been using the Power Train pure sine 2000w inverters with remote in our last two motorhomes, and have have had the last one in our Delaware for the last year, and find the great and a reasonable price.

 

We are reasonable ( some would say heavy) coffee drinkers and use the inverter to run a nespresso coffee machine, sometimes the toaster and occasionally a electric kettle and microwave, never to forget the wife's hair dryer, all of which it handles at ease one at a time.

We have ours connected to a short cord with 3pin plug into the inverter and 16amp plug on the other end in the power connection locker.

We connect the inverter to the camper via the normal 16 amp plug when we run off grid, and disconnect the plug and plug into the mains when using the grid.

Saves on expensive switches.

This method allows all the 230v sockets to be live when the inverter is on.

2 things you need to remember

1)you won't be able to use more than the inverter rating at any one time.

2)turn the power off to the fridge, but leave it in AES, then it will switch between gas & Battery but not 230v when the inverter is on. Turn the fridge power on when connected to mains.

 

Another thing, is you may need to upgrade batteries and solar if you use the inverter as much as us.

Garry

Forgot to add

The 2000w power train inverter comes with a remote unit to turn the inverter on and off.

So you can hid ethe inverter and turn it off and on easily.

See here for more details on these.

 

http://www.rvsupplies.co.nz/products/view/powertrain-pure-sinewave-inverter-2000-watt

 

 

Thanks everyone for your feedback on inverters and particularly Les who provided positive feedback on the JYINS brand inverter.

 

To close the loop, I purchased and installed a JYNS 2000W (4000W peak) UPS (inverter plus battery charger with auto swithching) including a remote, direct from the manufacturer in China.   Using Aliexpress the inverter cost NZD 371 landed!

 

I have now installed and tested it and it works great. The only job left to do is to have an electrician rewire the #1 230v circut so that goes via the UPS before supplying the microwave and 230V power sockets.

 

Total cost so far for the additional 2*100W solar panels, MPPT controller, inverter and wiring is NZD 1250 plus my own labour.  So if you have the time and some handyman skills I can thoroughly recommend this project.

 

Next step is to wire the UPS into the 230V circut and upgrade to a 200 Ahr Lithium Iron Phosphate battery.  Then will need to look for another project . . . .

 

Will post some pics for those interested.

Autotrail supplied solar pannel on LHS and two new flexible 100W solar panels centre and right.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Under seat in the Apache 634 showing battery box and new wiring.  The blue box is a BLE (bluetooth) unit that communicates between an Android phone and the Tracer MPPT controller. Very handy to see what is going on.

 

 

View inside the Apache 634 garage (RHS rear).  Tracer 30A MPPT controller on LHS JYINS 2000W UPS on RHS.

 

Hi Chris,  Your flexible solar panel setup is a really neat job and exactly what I planned to install on my Imala after pickup.  Can you tell me what brand flexible panels you have and how they are affixed, is it silicon or some other adhesive?

Your inverter install looks really neat too.

Regards IanG

Hi Chris, just curious as to why you chose flexible panels, as you've installed them on a flat surface. Also, you might want to protect your inverter from being colonised by spiders - which can get into any spaces that are open to the outside. You may be ok inside that cabinet. I mounted my first inverter in the empty bay beside the house battery, only to have the inverter go up in a cloud of acrid smoke some time later. On dismantling it, there was evidence of a charred spider.

Thanks Ian and Chris for your comments, will look out for those spiders and possibly paint aroubnd the inverter with a bug spray.

 

The reason I chose flexible solar pannels was:

a) I wanted to be able to stand on them as I have plans to fit two roof bars for a kayak/stand up paddle board

 

b) The flexible pannels are light and I was able to get them delivered from China to my home for $337 for two.
This substantially less than what you can buy them in NZ for and on a par with 100W mono chrystaline pannels from AA Solar

 

The pannels are made using Sunpower cells from USA Sunpower Corporation and have a high (claimed) efficiency of 19-23%.

 

Ian, here is the link to the supplier:

 

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/Solarparts-1PCS-100W-flexible-solar-panel-12V-solar-cell-module-system-RV-car-marine-boat-battery/32712881030.html?spm=2114.13010608.0.0.2bhPYC

 

I used Bostick Simson ISR 70-30 adhesive/selant.

http://bostik.co.nz/productDetails.aspx?p=857&c=120&t=i

 

Seemed to work well, so hopefully I wont need to remove the pannels !!!

 

Sounds good - sticking them down like that is a lot simpler that making up custom brackets. I'll look into that for our next motorhome.

 

However, be careful of shading them with the toys - if the cells in each panel are connected in series, a shadow on any one of them will affect the performance of the whole panel. It was a mistake I made when I set up an aerial to try and boost mobile phone coverage.

Thanks for the information Chris, much appreciated.

However there is a little problem with those particular solar panels for 12 volt charging. I'm guessing you are aware and maybe have them in series having an MPPT solar controller.

Normally for 12v charging we use panels with 36 cells for nominal19 volts having a 4 x 9 array of cells.  These panels are only 32 cells, a 4 x 8 array, and only rated 17 volts nominal.  Which means in lower light levels they will dropout sooner and if they are in a series string for more efficient MPPT operation then a shadow on any one panel limits the total current (hence power) to that of the affected panel. They will certainly work OK but not as effective as a full 36 cell array. 

Regards IanG

 

Thanks Ian for your comments,

based on your feedback it looks like you are selling your own solar solution?

The configuration we have can be connected either in series or parallel (which is best if shading is an issue). They are currently connected in series although it is a minor matter to connect them in parallel.

The true test will be in how they perform . . . . lets see. . . .

For me, the real test is $ per kW plus reliability.

C

 

 

ChrisB - I love your can do attitude and $ per kW + reliability research.  Keep us updated on any failures please otherwise we will assume you are onto a winner.  

 

Has anybody tried plugging an inverter into the cigarette lighter socket?  I'm not sure the cabling in the Auto-Trail's could handle the current draw?  I'd prefer this approach so the inverter is quickly removeable.

have a 1000w pure sine12v/ 220/240v nere new.  wanting to swap trade or buy 1800/2000w pure sine inverter  doug thom

I have just installed a 2000W modified sine wave inverter to run Lyns hair drier and our microwave. I bought the inverter new on TradeMe for about 200 dollars. Chris advised me to instal it under the sofa inside because in the out side locker it can accumulate spiders etc and ultimately 'fizz'! I have installed a 230V outlet socket on the sofa front and run a lead up through the outside locker and up to the microwave plug. All concealed from view.

Hi, we installed a 3kw psw inverter for Lynne's hairdryer, under the offside bench seat. Worked great, however prolonged use for microwave eventually melted all the internal fuses (320amps-worth!), so I would monitor the consumption of your microwave, it's more than you think!

Thanks for the warning. We don't intend to use the microwave for any prolonged use - just things like softening butter. The microwave makes a buzzing noise no doubt due to the modified sine wave so this probably doesn't do the electronics much I good. Our microwave is used 99.9% for a bread bin!

We have plugged out invertor so it runs back in the 230 volt main feed and so it now runs all the 230 volt power points and the fridge as a result.  We do have to monitor the output more to make sure we are not draining everything completly and of course the hair dryer and microwave in short bursts.  seems to be working well after a year of operation.

 

X250 and others Cab 12 volt socket change

 

The reason for the change is that 12 volt plugs usually keep coming out of contact over bumps causing loss of power to sat navs/ chargers etc without you realising until it proves inconvenient.
These twist lock sockets prevent this 
Pictures a bit out of sequence as I've already fitted the new sockets.
First remove the rubber seat for the ashtray cup holder. Then remove the T25 torqs screw.
 

The whole switch panel then pulls up on the front edge nearest you and out towards you.
The pair of original connectors have a seperate small +ve wire for illumination of the cigarette lighter socket, this wont be needed so cut off and tape back.
The large yellow +ve requires a blue female 6.3mm spade and the -ve black a red 6.3mm 

LED STRIP LIGHT
AT NZ Facebook Post:   We have a prob. with 1 of our led strip lights above the sink unit, goes but not bright. Can't see how the cover comes off. Any help would be great. We have an Imala 730.
Comment:
-  The cover just pops off, carefully.

 

VEHICLE BATTERY READING
AT NZ Facebook post:  I am hoping someone may be able to help me. We have a 2015 Delaware owned from new. The vehicle has been fitted with 2 house batteries 220Ah Recently the vehicle battery has been showing 4% or less charge but the vehicle battery reads 13.2v on my multi-meter and the vehicle starts every time. I thought I would ask if other AT owners have had an issue like this and maybe offer a solution. Any advice would be appreciated.

Comment:
  Presume you mean showing 4% on the control panel?  If so, and you are happy battery is ok, you could try to Recalibrate the control panel.
  I had the same issue on my 2014 Delaware, after doing some tests at the Sargent controller, the reading was correct.  I found the 20 amp fuses blown on the unit behind the drivers seat.  Replaced and all was good, occurred after a service.  I believe it is called the MT4O.
 We have a year old Apache 632 with a second leisure battery. However my vehicle battery runs down and after about 4 days unable to start. Surely it should last for a few weeks, maybe sneak drain somewhere.  [Subsequently discovered the simple reason, have been switching the 'battery' switch on the 500 panel 'on' and hence using vehicle battery all the time!!!] 

Les is correct, but also if in the set up menu you select SMART charge then the system should alternate the batteries as required.  If one or the other is low it should detect that and charge it.  Unfortunately it doesn’t always work, so I keep an eye on the batteries and manually select the weaker one.  Meanwhile the SMART charger doodles about in the back ground.

JohnM

Copenhagen

Another suggestion, and this happened to us, if the fuses from the leisure battery are blown, the display panel will still indicate good batteries because the panel display measures the output of the charger!!! Big trap!!! 

So then the system will select the van batteries when not on electric hook up.

Important to check the fuses on leisure battery lead at the battery and in the electrical cupboard fuse panel. 

JohnM

Thanks, really useful information.  How do you test if the fuse has blown on leisure battery?

You can use a trickle B2B charger like a Batterymaster which keeps the vehicle battery topped up from the leisure battery. Never have to worry about Sargent failing to charge the vehicle battery.

Bman, to check the leisure battery fuses, on our Commanche they are in the positive battery lead about 200 mm from the batteries.   Easiest is to eyeball the fuse, you will see (if) it has blown by the black burn mark and missing fuse wire.  If unfamiliar compare to a new fuse.

 

measuring voltages is not a good method for the inexperienced as you may find miss leading measurements by measuring the wrong location.  Just change if you think it has failed. 

 

Also check the appropriate fuse at the power panel.  There is a list there identifying the fuse.

 

Note:  all motorhomers should always carry spare fuses.  In two and a half years we have replaced half a dozen failed fuses in the MH and recently in the Toad.

John M

Copenhagen 

FAN  INTERMITTENT
AT NZ Facebook post:  We are having an intermittent problem with the ceiling fan in our Tracker RB 2015. It goes occasionally, sometimes doesn’t want to go at all and other times goes for a short time then stops. Any ideas on how to fix the problem would be much appreciated thank you.
Comment:
  Most likely the switch on its way out.  They are available without replacing the entire fan.

 

Had issues in our old MH. The fan controller would start flashing the lights and the fan would stop

I removed the fan an conected it to a battery direct with an Ammeter in the circuit. It drew lots of amps to start with then settled down after 20-30 second to a low value. Reversed the connections a couple of times and it ran OK

I suspect that the bearing grease had got hard. I noted that it ran faster when it directly connected to 12V  

Re-assembled all into MH and ran OK after that

I also took the oportunity to lube the vent mechanism with silicone grease while I had the fan out

We are traveling full time in Europe, been on the road for 18 months now in our Comanche, with a car in tow.

 

We recently had a failure in the leisure battery wiring that surprises me and Sargent. I have not talked with AT as previous communication has not been satisfactory.  

 

I am electrically qualified which is a BIG help in this hobby, and with good communication with Tim at Sargents I eventually solved the issue.

 

We don't freedom camp, instead preferring the security of motorcamps, plus we stop for about seven to ten days in most destinations.  The first symptom was that the leisure batteries were not charging.  I soon discovered that the the two 20 amp fuses on the dual battery loom had blown.  Replacing them resulted in the new fuses exploding.  This indicated a dead short circuit.

I soon found that all four of the flimsy battery cables were shorted to one another and the chassis. I cut the cables at both ends, so nothing was connected to them and the cables were still shorted together.  

 

After some time looking for chaffed wiring below the chassis I found no sign of where the problem lay, so I ran four new wires from the batteries to the EC500.  

 

But things still were not right.  Incidentally, I carry a spare EC500, so I swapped that over at one point also.

 

Eventuslly I discovered the 20 amp engine battery fuse that supplies van power to the EC500 was also blown.  This is in the fuse box on the floor behind the drivers seat and easily forgotten.  Now you may ask why was it not obvious that that fuse had blown?  This is important, the EC500 display panel still shows voltage and charge of about 45% when there are no batteries connected, because I believe it is not reading the battery state but displaying what the charger is doing, in my case the charger was driving the interior lighting while the batteries were isolated by the blown fuses.  Big trap!

 

So where have my original battery leads shorted.  I believe I have worked this mystery out, but only in theory as it cannot be accessed.

The four battery wires to the EC500, let us talk from the EC500 to the batteries, the four wires pass down through the bottom of the overhead cabinetry into that odd little curved cornice in the corner beside the curtains where they travel horizontally into the void behind the drivers right shoulder.  From there they pass over an obstacle then fall straight down into a loom below the chassis and into the battery compartment. My conclusion is that the above mentioned obstacle is a piece of sharp steel, a gusset strengthening the back corner of the B pillar?  I firmly believe this is the only place where my four battery cables can all be shorted together.  I also suspect more cables may chafe there in the future?

 

I hope this is a rare event, but if not our story may help someone to solve an issue.

 

John and Bron

Marbella

Thanks John for your detailed breakdown of the trouble shooting you went through on this one.

I'd imagine many hours of thinking and exploring went into this - lucky you had the time, tools and experience to diagnose.  Interesting that you found AT communication unsatisfactory, was this because the battery system was modified after delivery and they didn't want to know?

 

We had a quite different situation, requiring many hours to figure out, that others may be interested in.

Our van was new, electrics converted in Auckland by an electrical inspector.

When we came to a campsite and plugged 230V in, the EC500 wouldn't light up.

It had just been through conversion so we rang the electrician/inspector and he was similarly stumped, after all he had tested and certified his work.

 

So we became suspicious of the factory supplied 230v cable which he hadn't used in his testing.

We tested it on the only other van at the campsite by connecting to his hardwired cable.

The factory supplied cable worked fine during this test but we weren't able to test it exactly the same way as we used it.  Specifically, instead of plugging the factory supplied cable into the side of his van we were connecting to his hard wired cable lying on the ground.

This led us to believe the issue was with the van.

Rookie mistake - many hours went into trying to diagnose what was wrong with the van.

 

BUT the fault only occured when plugging into the van and the cable hung down pulling the phase wire out.

Forehead smack!

 

 

 

Anyone know how to access the box in pic below containing the power and heating remote units.  There is a screw on either side which I have removed but nothing seems to come apart easily and I didn't like to apply much pressure just in case. Regards IanG

 

 

The easiest way in will be via the controls. The grey surround for the Sargent unit will pop off and there will be screws behind which will allow this unit come out of the panel. Similarly with the switch. I think the Truma panel is similiar but you have to remove the knob first.

Rob

Thanks Rob,  I did remove the middle switch for the awning light, but I was hoping to remove the whole panel to make small holes in the sides to run a cable behind to power a Sirocco fan on the side of shower wall.  It's messy to go around the panel and the size of wiring I saw for the awning light didn't inspire me to tap into it and couldn't pick up the neg lead either.  Now you have pointed out how the Sargent unit is mounted, I'll give that a try and see whats behind.  Kind regards IanG.

If you’re new to motorhoming, you may not realise that space heating, water heating and refrigeration are all designed to be run on gas as well as mains electricity. Most motorhome electrical equipment runs off 12 volts and so can be powered from the on board battery when there is no mains hook up. Making that battery last is all about using its power as efficiently and economically as possible and, if necessary, finding additional sources of 12 volt power.

Rallying for  2-3 days with a good, charged battery, should be no problem, even if a 12 volt TV is on for 1-2 hours per night. Beyond this additional power sources may be needed.

It’s important to understand how much power is consumed by the various 12 volt devices.

From the table below you will see some use a lot more power than others.

Power is measured in watts - the more the power the greater the watts.

Item

Power consumed (watts) 12 watts = 1 amp

17” LCD colour TV

35 - 50

15 “ LCD colour TV

25 - 40

19" LED colour TV

25-35

Satellite receiver / Freeview box

12

TV booster

0.6

Halogen down lighter

10 or  20 (depends on bulb wattage)

Fan for blown air heating

10 – 50 (depends on speed setting)

Fluorescent strip light

6 - 7

LED strip light

2 - 3

LED spotlight

2 – 3

 

Fluorescent lights use less power than halogen lights and LED lights are more efficient again. Very recent advances in technology mean that LED lights are now available in warm colours and only use about 15% of the power taken by an equivalent halogen light.

                                 [ - - - - - - - - - - - - - - S I T E  V O L T S - - - - - - - - - - - - - ]
                                        200v   210v   220v    230v     240v
WATTS                           [ - - -  - - A M P S  D R A W - - -]
250                                 1.250   1.190 1.136   1.087     1.042
500                                 2.500   2.381 2.273   2.174     2.083
750                                 3.750   3.571 3.409   3.261     3.125
1000                               5.000   4.762 4.545   4.348     4.167
1250                               6.250   5.952 5.682   5.435     5.208
1500                               7.500   7.143 6.818   6.522     6.250
1750                               8.750   8.333 7.955   7.609     7.292
2000                              10.000  9.524 9.091    8.696    8.333
2250                              11.250 10.714 10.227 9.783   9.375
2500                              12.500 11.905 11.364 10.870 10.417
2750                              13.750 13.095 12.500 11.957 11.458
3000                              15.000 14.286 13.636 13.043 12.500
3250                              16.250 15.476 14.773 14.130 13.542
3500                              17.500 16.667 15.909 15.217 14.583
3750                              18.750 17.857 17.045 16.304 15.625
4000                              20.000 19.048 18.182 17.391 16.667
                    The calculation to find the AMPERAGE draw is Watts / Volts.
                    The calculation to find  the WATTAGE is Amps X Volts.
                     Most UK sites with EHU will be at least 230v - 240v.
                     On the continent it is more often 220v, or often less, and as low
                     as 200v on many large sites when busy, especially in winter.
                     Beware that the lower the voltage, the higher the amperage draw.

A mains plug in power meter is a very handy device to have in the motorhome,
as you can then define the site's EHU voltage. If you know the wattage or the
amperage of the appliances in use, you can work out what you can use without 
tripping the site supplies.
A typical plug in power meter can be purchased for £10 or under.

I decided my new RB needed some extra lighting so I added some LED strip around the fan which now shines nicely into the fridge and the other areas. I used an old school bed lamp switch as the on/off which fits nicely into the escutcheon of the vent (first image) The under bench cupboards were also very dark so added strip on the three levels and put a micro lever switch on the door to act as the on/off. Also added a 230v outlet by the door for Helens hair dryer and phone chargers when on hook up. Came off the outlet in the garage and ran the feed through the bathroom, under the fridge and up the back of the table cupboard

y

We have developed a problem with the marker fuse buzzing and when removed cuts out all the motorhome power. 

The step would set it off as well.  Fuse OK batteries are OK the auto electrician can't work it out.  Think it could be the relay, does anyone know how to access to fuse box (this is the one on the floor behind the drivers seat)to get at it. Any suggestions would be helpful.

Attached are details of the EM40 and the more recent EM50 interface modules which are located behind the driver's seat.  Hopefully this will provide more technical information for you.

 

http://autotrailusers.nz/ForumFiles/1012/EM50_Tech_Data.pdf

 

http://autotrailusers.nz/ForumFiles/1012/EC500%20Dealer%20Guide%20Issue%201(1).pdf

 

In our Apache 634 the EM40 is readily accessible via a perspex cover and can be removed by removing 4 screws. 

I have included some pics of the unit.

 

Not sure of the set up in the Delaware?

 

 

 

As you are loosing all Motorhome power when the marker fuse is removed, I suspect you have a "backfeed" through the marker fuse suggesting that you have lost a power feed somewhere. The other possibility could be loss of an earth feed/ connection. 

Check continuity of all fuses first.

Finally found the problem and it was under the box where the fuses are, the red connection had started melting together so confusing everything.  Not sure what caused this but at least we are now sorted.  Always a bit scarey when the electrics play up in these vehicle!!

We find our cable is quite stiff and unruly when we try to store it. Presently sits in a plastic tub, but gets tangled as we try to use it. Does anyone know if it can be wound on to reel (like a hose holder)? Do they get too hot if they are wound up? TIA for any advice.